What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingStearic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingGlycol Distearate
EmollientSolum Diatomeae
AbrasiveKaolin
AbrasiveZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSodium Bicarbonate
AbrasiveBeeswax
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSaponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialDecyl Glucoside
CleansingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Powder
Morus Alba Root Extract
BleachingChlorella Vulgaris Powder
Skin ConditioningCarica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPhaseolus Radiatus Seed Powder
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Powder
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLactuca Scariola Sativa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPhaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Myristic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Glycol Distearate, Solum Diatomeae, Kaolin, Zea Mays Starch, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Beeswax, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Morus Alba Root Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Powder, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Powder, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Powder, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactuca Scariola Sativa Leaf Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Water, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingLauric Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantLauryl Betaine
CleansingPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Paradisi Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlucose
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCandida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
AntimicrobialLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantWater, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Glucoside, Lauryl Betaine, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Beeswax, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Butylene Glycol, Glucose, Disodium EDTA, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Beeswax is natural wax produced by honey bees to build their honeycomb.
Because it forms a protective layer on your skin, it can help lock in moisture and reduce water loss. It is also widely used as a thickener and emulsifier in lip balms and lotions. Research suggests beeswax containing moisturizers can support skin barrier integrity.
In comedogenic testing, Beeswax scored a 0-2, which is on the low end. Whether or not a product clogs your pores really comes down to the formula as a whole (not any single ingredient on its own) and your skin.
Cera Alba is the white, bleached form of this ingredient.
Just so you know, beeswax is not vegan since it is animal-derived. It cannot be removed with water, but can be taken off with an oil cleanser.
People with a known Propolis allergy also report to have reactions from beeswax.
Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.
The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.
Learn more about BeeswaxButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil is oil from the peel of an orange fruit.
Limonene and linalool make up the majority of oils from citrus peels. Limonene has a "citrus" fragrance. Citrus peels also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.
Citrus peel is also a rich source of flavonoids. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants and help protect your skin against damage. Flavonoids are a group of compounds naturally found in vegetables and fruits.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilCitrus Limon Fruit Extract comes from lemons. While lemon extract is exfoliating and antimicrobial, it can also cause skin sensitivity.
Lemons contains antioxidants, which may help with anti-aging. They are also rich in citric acid, an AHA.
And of course, lemons are rich in Vitamin C. Vitamin C helps with skin-brightening and increasing collagen production.
The acidity of lemons may work as an astringent for acne.
However, lemons can also cause skin sensitivity due to its limonene content. It can also increase photosensitivity, or sensitivity to the sun.
This ingredient is also used to add a lemon scent to products.
Learn more about Citrus Limon Fruit ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractLauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and even breast milk.
In cosmetics, it is an:
Lab studies have found that lauric acid is surprisingly good at killing acne-causing bacteria. However, these tests were done on bacteria in a petri dish and not on real skin, so we can't say for certain it works the same in a formulation on a real face.
The comedogenic rating of 4 comes from the 1972 rabbit ear model using undiluted ingredients. Comedogenicity is highly individual and one comedogenic ingredient cannot predict how a formula will behave on skin.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe and research has confirmed Malassezia can use it as a food source. Even though "fungal acne" has the word "acne" in it, they are completely different. Regular acne is driven by a bacteria called Cutibacterium acnes, clogged pores, and excess oil. Fungal acne isn't really acne; it's caused by an overgrowth of a yeast called Malassezia that already lives on everyone's skin. Because one is bacterial and the other is fungal, they respond to different ingredients.
Learn more about Lauric AcidThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilMyristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize, and therefore not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidPotassium Hydroxide (also known as potash) is a strong alkaline ingredient that does one job: it nudges a product's pH up so the whole formula lands in a skin-friendly range.
It's also the base that turns oils into liquid soap during the soap making process.
An expert safety panel reviewed it and found it safe when formulations are made to be non-irritating.
As a pH adjuster, it's typically used well under 1% though regulatory caps go much higher: 5% in nail cuticle removers and 2-4.5% in hair straighteners.
Though there is some concern for irritation from raw or high pH material, a well-balanced formula will be a non-issue for the vast majority of people.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxideSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water