IT Cosmetics Do It All Lip Transformer Versus IT Cosmetics Je Ne Sais Quoi Hydrating Lip Balm Treatment
This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.
This lip moisturizer is formulated around Cera Alba and Ricinus Communis Seed Oil to hydrate lips.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientIsocetyl Stearate
EmollientPolybutene
Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveDipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate
EmollientGlyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningTribehenin
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
EmollientLactic Acid
BufferingKaolin
AbrasivePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningIsododecane
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveTrimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientSucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate
EmollientHydrogenated Jojoba Oil
AbrasiveCetearyl Behenate
EmollientIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientColophonium
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45380
Cosmetic ColorantBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Isocetyl Stearate, Polybutene, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, Diisostearyl Malate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Silica, Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Glycine Soja Protein, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Synthetic Beeswax, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Sorbitan Stearate, Parfum, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Leaf Extract, Phospholipids, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Lactic Acid, Kaolin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Isododecane, Synthetic Wax, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Cetearyl Behenate, Isoamyl Laurate, Colophonium, CI 77891, Mica, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 15850, CI 77742, CI 19140, CI 17200, CI 15985, CI 42090, CI 45410, CI 45380
Polybutene
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientCera Alba
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasiveTrihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingTribehenin
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientParfum
MaskingPrunus Avium Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPunica Granatum Extract
AstringentVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingTin Oxide
AbrasiveSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 73360
Cosmetic ColorantCI 75470
Cosmetic ColorantPolybutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecanol, Cera Alba, Polyethylene, Trihydroxystearin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Tribehenin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Parfum, Prunus Avium Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Isostearate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Tin Oxide, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, CI 77891, CI 15850, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, Mica, CI 45410, CI 19140, CI 73360, CI 75470
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidMica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Learn more about MicaPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamatePolybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybuteneSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin