IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Dark Spots Concealer + Serum Versus Hourglass Cosmetics Vanish Airbrush Concealer
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPropylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMagnesium Sulfate
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingParaffin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSilica Silylate
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveCaffeine
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Aluminum Hydroxide
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrated Silica
AbrasiveHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientMethicone
EmollientCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77007
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Niacinamide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Sulfate, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Paraffin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Microcrystalline Wax, Caprylyl Glycol, Silica Silylate, Silica, Synthetic Wax, Caffeine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrated Silica, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Methicone, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77007, CI 15985, CI 42090, CI 45410, CI 15850
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantButylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningCI 77120
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Chloride
MaskingVinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Aluminum Hydroxide
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingDimethicone
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingMethicone
EmollientMyristic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantPolysilicone-11
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentSqualane
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Chlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Phenyl Trimethicone, Mica, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Pvp, PEG-10 Dimethicone, CI 77120, Sodium Chloride, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Aluminum Hydroxide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Methicone, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Polysilicone-11, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Squalane, Stearic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, Iron Oxides
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aluminum Hydroxide is a form of aluminum. It can be naturally found in nature as the mineral gibbsite. In cosmetics, Aluminum Hydroxide is used as a colorant, pH adjuster, and absorbent.
As a colorant, Aluminum Hydroxide may add opacity, or reduce the transparency. Aluminum hydroxide is contains both basic and acidic properties.
According to manufacturers, this ingredient is an emollient and humectant. This means it helps hydrate the skin.
In medicine, this ingredient is used to help relieve heartburn and help heal ulcers.
There is currently no credible scientific evidence linking aluminum hydroxide in cosmetics to increased cancer risk.
Major health organizations allow the use of aluminum hydroxide in personal care products and have not flagged it as a carcinogenic risk at typical usage levels.
Learn more about Aluminum HydroxideCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCi 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Disteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Learn more about Disteardimonium HectoriteMethicone is a type of silicone and is a simpler form of dimethicone.
Silicones are used to enhance the texture of products and have emollient properties. Methicone is used to give products a silky texture and improves spreadability.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water