What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCandelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
EmulsifyingJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningBrassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningMoringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSqualene
EmollientCaprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Phytate
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Fruit Extract
EmollientCrithmum Maritimum Extract
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Persea Gratissima Oil, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Mica, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalene, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Citrate, CI 77891, CI 77491
Water
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCollagen
MoisturisingRetinol
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialSambucus Nigra Flower Extract
RefreshingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTrideceth-6 Phosphate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLaureth-23
CleansingC18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientC18-36 Acid Glycol Ester
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Persea Gratissima Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Panthenol, Caffeine, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Collagen, Retinol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 60, Adenosine, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Laurate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Laureth-23, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis ingredient is also known as Avocado oil. It's the cold-pressed oil from the flesh of the avocado fruit packed with fatty acids (mostly oleic acid).
The rich fatty acid profile allows it to function as a skin conditioning agent and emollient; it helps soften and smooth skin while reducing water loss.
Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.
The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.
The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.
It's a great ingredient for dry or compromised skin. Just know it may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.
Learn more about Persea Gratissima OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum