What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantCapryloyl Glycine
CleansingCitric Acid
BufferingDimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate
CleansingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Polyacrylate Starch
AbsorbentEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingSucrose Palmitate
EmollientCetrimonium Bromide
AntimicrobialCaesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Skin ConditioningButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberSalvia Sclarea Extract
AntiseborrhoeicGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientDiethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingGlucose
HumectantCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlteromonas Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPotassium Chloride
Calcium Chloride
AstringentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantMagnesium Sulfate
Glutamine
Skin ConditioningSodium Phosphate
BufferingAlcohol
AntimicrobialAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantSodium Acetate
BufferingTris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate
StabilisingLysine Hcl
Skin ConditioningArginine Hcl
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingHistidine Hcl
Skin ConditioningValine
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningTryptophan
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSerine
MaskingCystine
MaskingCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Asparagine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingOrnithine Hcl
Skin ConditioningGlutamic Acid
HumectantNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantProline
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningTaurine
BufferingHydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Coenzyme A
Skin ConditioningCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Glucuronate
HumectantThiamine Diphosphate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Acetate
Skin ConditioningInositol
HumectantNiacin
SmoothingNiacinamide
SmoothingPyridoxine Hcl
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicCalcium Pantothenate
Riboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
AntioxidantThiamine Hcl
MaskingFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Capryloyl Glycine, Citric Acid, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Sucrose Palmitate, Cetrimonium Bromide, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Glyceryl Linoleate, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Glucose, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Xanthan Gum, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glutamine, Sodium Phosphate, Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Acetate, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Lysine Hcl, Arginine Hcl, Alanine, Histidine Hcl, Valine, Leucine, Threonine, Isoleucine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Cystine, Cyanocobalamin, Glutathione, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Ornithine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Tocopherol, Proline, Methionine, Taurine, Hydroxyproline, Glucosamine Hcl, Coenzyme A, CI 17200, Sodium Glucuronate, Thiamine Diphosphate, Retinyl Acetate, Inositol, Niacin, Niacinamide, Pyridoxine Hcl, Biotin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingTriethyl Citrate
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingNiacinamide
SmoothingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingTaurine
BufferingPolyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
EmulsifyingCarnosine
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantMannitol
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
EmollientSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantBenzoic Acid
MaskingGlycine
BufferingPseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
HumectantMagnesium Sulfate
Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningErgothioneine
AntioxidantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Triethyl Citrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Citrate, Niacinamide, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Taurine, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Carnosine, Sodium PCA, Mannitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentylene Glycol, Arginine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Silybum Marianum Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Tocopherol, Benzoic Acid, Glycine, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Magnesium Sulfate, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Ergothioneine, CI 17200
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
CI 17200 is a synthetic, water-soluble, reddish-pink dye. It is used purely as a cosmetic colorant.
In the US, the FDA permits this ingredient in cosmetics but it is not approved for use around the eyes while the EU allows this to be used in all cosmetic products.
The FDA requires batch-to-batch certification for this ingredient that is held to a pretty rigorous standard. That means the CI 17200 in your cosmetics has been tested and approved before it ever reaches you.
Contact allergy to cosmetic-grade dyes used at low concentrations are uncommon but has been documented before.
This ingredient also goes by the name D&C RED NO. 33.
CI 17200 has a comedogenic rating of 1 and an irritancy rating of 2 on a scale of 0-5. This is based on peer-reviewed research from the man who invented the comedogenic scale.
A 1 on the comedogenic scale is about as low as it gets without being a flat zero, and makes sense for CI 17200.
It's a water-soluble dye used at very small concentrations (typically 0.001-0.1%), so it dissolves into the water phase of a formula rather than sitting on your skin the way an oil or wax would.
The irritancy rating of 2 reflects that, like most synthetic dyes, there's a small possibility of mild irritation ( particularly for people with existing dye sensitivities).
For the vast majority of people, it's a non-issue at typical use levels.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Just so you know, the FDA ban on Red Dye No. 3 refers to CI 45430, not this ingredient. CI 45430 and CI 17200 are different chemical compounds with distinct safety and regulatory histories.
It's also worth noting that Red No. 3 (CI 45430) was already banned from cosmetics back in 1990, so the 2025 action just extended the ban to food and oral drugs. CI 17200 was never part of any of this.
Learn more about CI 17200Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Magnesium Sulfate is a salt. More specifically, it is an epsom salt, or the bath salt used to help relieve muscle aches.
Despite having âsulfateâ in the name, it isnât a surfactant or cleansing agent like sodium lauryl sulfate. Unlike those sulfates, magnesium sulfate doesnât have the same cleansing or foaming properties (it's simply a type of salt).
In cosmetics, Magnesium Sulfate is used to thicken a product or help dilute other solids. It is a non-reactive and non-irritating ingredient.
One study shows magnesium deficiency may lead to inflammation of the skin. Applying magnesium topically may help reduce inflammation.
You can find this ingredient in sea water or mineral deposits.
Learn more about Magnesium SulfateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideThis ingredient is also called NAD+.
It is a coenzyme naturally found in every living cell where it plays a role in energy metabolism, DNA repair, and the activation of enzymes that maintain cellular health. Niacinamide is one of its key precursors.
Our NAD+ levels naturally decline with age and several DNA repair mechanisms critical to skin health are directly dependent on NAD+ to function.
In-vitro studies on human fibroblasts have shown that exogenous NAD+ can protect agsinst UV-induced extrinsic and intrinsic aging.
Here's a big caveat: NAD+ is a large, polar moleculate that has difficult penetrating the skin's stratum corneum. It also degrades quickly when exposed to light, heat, or pH changes. That's why brands prefer to use smaller, more stable precursors like NMN or NR.
The optimal stability for NAD+ is a pH of 6-7.5 and it is typically used in concentration ranges from 0.5-2%.
If you're looking for the most well-studied topical route to support your skin's NAD+, niacinamide is your best bet.
Learn more about Nicotinamide Adenine DinucleotideParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of âFRAGRANCEâ or âPARFUMâ according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTaurine is an amino acid that is found in human skin as an osmolyte. An osmolyte is a small molecule that cells use to hold onto water and stay comfortable under stressful conditions.
In skin cell studies, taurine accumulation helps cells maintain hydration in low-humidity environments. Some dermatology research on osmolytes also link taurine to barrier support. Research also suggests that osomolyte systems can be disrupted in photoaged skin.
One animal study reported tropical taurine improved barrier function and collagen signaling, while another one found oral taurine can lessen UVB-related damage. It is important to note that evidence for taurine in skincare is mostly preclinical, meaning further studies are needed.
Learn more about TaurineTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum