What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycereth-26
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Emollient
Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract
AstringentCereus Grandiflorus Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Emollient
Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Phospholipids
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientGlyceryl Undecylenate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Sodium Phytate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
Buffering
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Propanediol
Solvent
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Parfum
Masking
Benzyl Salicylate
Perfuming
Hexyl Cinnamal
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
CI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Cereus Grandiflorus Flower Extract, Hovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Limonene, CI 14700, CI 17200
Water
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Dicaprylyl Ether
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Sodium PCA
Humectant
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingLecithin
Emollient
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Antimicrobial
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
Masking
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Acer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
Buffering
Water, C10-18 Triglycerides, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Acer Saccharum Extract, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a plant-derived emulsifier whose only job is to keep the oily and watery parts of a formula blended so it doesn't separate into layers.
It's compatible with a wide-range of active ingredients and especially good at making emulsions survive heat/freeze cycles.
Typical use concentrations range from 2-3% and it works across a pH of 4.5-8.5.
This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics and has a low irritation profile.
Because it's build on stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that falls within the range (C11-24) that Malassezia can feed on.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose DistearateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
