What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingOzokerite
Emulsion StabilisingPolyisobutene
Glycine Soja Oil
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentCamellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
AstringentDictyopteris Membranacea Extract
AntioxidantMagnolia Grandiflora Bark Extract
AntimicrobialCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningSchinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
EmollientVaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLauryl Alcohol
EmollientLinoleic Acid
CleansingLinolenic Acid
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCocos Nucifera Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Beeswax, Ozokerite, Polyisobutene, Glycine Soja Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Dictyopteris Membranacea Extract, Magnolia Grandiflora Bark Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lauryl Alcohol, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientEthylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientButylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientAroma
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantMica
Cosmetic ColorantLimonene
PerfumingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantAtelocollagen
Skin ConditioningCaesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingTin Oxide
AbrasivePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningOryzanol
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Tribehenin, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Aroma, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mica, Limonene, CI 77891, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Atelocollagen, Caesalpinia Sappan Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Linalool, Citral, Tin Oxide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Oryzanol, Ubiquinone
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitatePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
This ingredient is also known as Avocado oil. It's the cold-pressed oil from the flesh of the avocado fruit packed with fatty acids (mostly oleic acid).
The rich fatty acid profile allows it to function as a skin conditioning agent and emollient; it helps soften and smooth skin while reducing water loss.
Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.
The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.
The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.
It's a great ingredient for dry or compromised skin. Just know it may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.
Learn more about Persea Gratissima OilSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin