What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Lactobacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Masking
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Emollient
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Propanediol, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Squalane
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Olivate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
Emollient
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Emollient
C18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Astringent
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Acacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCitric Acid
Buffering
Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Perfuming
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Masking
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Astringent
Levisticum Officinale Oil
Masking
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingTocotrienols
Skin Conditioning
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Emollient
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Masking
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil
Astringent
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin Conditioning
Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Cetearyl Alcohol, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Polysorbate 60, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Sorbitan Olivate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Phenethyl Alcohol, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Citric Acid, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Levisticum Officinale Oil, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tocotrienols, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Alcohol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
