What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Decyl Cocoate
Emollient
C10-18 Triglycerides
Emollient
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Jojoba Esters
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Collagen Amino Acids
Moisturising
Glyceryl Behenate
Emollient
Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
Emollient
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin Conditioning
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera
Emollient
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
Buffering
Levulinic Acid
Perfuming
Polyglycerin-3
Humectant
Phytic Acid
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Water, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Glycerin, Decyl Cocoate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Jojoba Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Collagen Amino Acids, Glyceryl Behenate, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ubiquinone, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Citric Acid, Levulinic Acid, Polyglycerin-3, Phytic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Skin Conditioning
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Inulin
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Emollient
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Microcrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentHydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
Emollient
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Jojoba Esters
Emollient
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingMaltodextrin
Absorbent
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingPropylene Carbonate
SolventCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Propanediol
Solvent
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Antimicrobial
Citric Acid
Buffering
Lactobacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Polyglycerin-3
Humectant
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Masking
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Sodium Chloride
MaskingChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Behenyl Alcohol, Inulin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Propylene Carbonate, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propanediol, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Citric Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactic Acid, Polyglycerin-3, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxJojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Learn more about Jojoba EstersPentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolyglycerin-3 is a 3-unit glycerin polymer.
Like glycerin, this ingredient is a humectant. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing water to it.
Having moisturized skin helps improve the skin barrier. Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.
Learn more about Polyglycerin-3Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
