What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPetrolatum
EmollientPolyquaternium-69
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Paraffin
Skin ConditioningLanolin Alcohol
EmollientPvp
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningOleanolic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingBiotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Glycerin
HumectantPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientSodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
PreservativePolysilicone-15
UV FilterParfum
MaskingApigenin
AntioxidantTrideceth-6
EmulsifyingC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCeteareth-20
CleansingPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPEG-75 Lanolin
EmollientQuaternium-95
UV AbsorberDisodium EDTA
ChelatingVp/Va Copolymer
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberPropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Skin ConditioningSorbic Acid
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDMDM Hydantoin
PreservativeBHT
AntioxidantBenzyl Cinnamate
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingHydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
MaskingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingWater, Petrolatum, Polyquaternium-69, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Paraffin, Lanolin Alcohol, Pvp, Cetearyl Alcohol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Oleanolic Acid, Hydrolyzed Keratin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Glycerin, Phenyl Trimethicone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, Polysilicone-15, Parfum, Apigenin, Trideceth-6, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ceteareth-20, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-75 Lanolin, Quaternium-95, Disodium EDTA, Vp/Va Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, DMDM Hydantoin, BHT, Benzyl Cinnamate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Water
Skin ConditioningVp/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSteareth-20
CleansingPetrolatum
EmollientLanolin Alcohol
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingPEG-75 Lanolin
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDMDM Hydantoin
PreservativeIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativePropanediol
SolventPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantTin Oxide
AbrasiveCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Quinoa
Skin ConditioningCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Vp/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-20, Petrolatum, Lanolin Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, PEG-75 Lanolin, Glycerin, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Propanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Parfum, CI 15985, Mica, CI 77891, Tin Oxide, CI 16035, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Quinoa, Citronellol, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylphenyl Methylpropional is a synthetic fragrance. You might know it as "lilial". The scent of this ingredient is floral-like and similar to the scent of lily flowers.
In March of 2022, the EU banned this ingredient in both rinse-off and leave-on products. This is because research found Butylphenyl Methylpropional to disrupt fertility in rats.
This ingredient is also a known EU allergen, meaning it is likely to cause an allergic reaction. Irritated skin can be damaging.
We always recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns or questions about this ingredient.
Learn more about Butylphenyl MethylpropionalCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolDMDM Hydantoin has antimicrobial and antifungal properties. It is a preservative that works by slowly releasing formaldehyde over time.
So what's formaldehyde?
DMDM Hydantoin is approved for use in cosmetics all around the world.
In the EU, this ingredient is allowed in personal products up to 0.6 percent.
You might have heard of the class-action lawsuit about it causing hair loss. According to chemists, there has not been a link found between this ingredient and hair loss.
The Hydantoin part of this ingredient is created by reacting glycolic acid and urea.
You can check out alternatives to Dmdm Hydantoin:
phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, and sodium benzoate.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalA complex combination of organic alcohols obtained by the hydrolysis of lanolin and is classified as a fatty alcohol.
Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as traditional alcohols.
Limonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPEG-75 Lanolin is a water-dispersible version of lanolin mainly used as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin softening ingredient.
An ingredient safety assessment found that PEG lanolins are typically used around 0.1-5% though PEG-75 Lanolin was reported as high as 10-25% in one moisturizer.
This ingredient has been patch-tested at concentrations up to 100% in 53 people without irritation or sensitization.
This ingredient was given a rating of 0 from the original 1989 comedogenic test. Comedogenic ratings come from tests done on rabbit ears which the researchers themselves acknowledged was an imperfect substitute for human acne.
Later testing found finished products made with so-called comedogenic ingredients often turn out not to be comedogenic at all.
Since lanolin contains esters exactly in the range that the Malassezia yeast can synthesize, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-75 LanolinPetrolatum is more commonly known as petroleum jelly. It is created by mixing waxes and mineral oils.
This ingredient is effective at reducing water loss by 99%. This is because it is an occlusive. Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier on the skin to prevent evaporation. This property makes it great for hydrating dry skin.
Pro tip: Use occlusives, such as this ingredient, on damp skin for the best results.
The quality or origin of petrolatum is only known when disclosed by the brand. Most cosmetic petrolatum has gone through several purification stages.
Another benefit of occlusives is it protects your skin against infection or allergies.
Petrolatum is fungal acne safe. It is a hydrocarbon with no fatty acid structure, so Malassezia cannot metabolize it. In-vitro studies support negligible growth stimulation as well.
It's also worth noting that petrolatum has a comedogenic rating of 0. In updated rabbit ear testing (and in human testing), petrolatum was found to be not comedogenic. This means it didn’t promote comedone formation in standard models.
Learn more about PetrolatumPhenyl Trimethicone is a silicon-based polymer. It is derived from silica.
Phenyl Trimethicone is used as an emollient and prevents products from foaming.
As an emollient, it helps trap moisture in the skin. It is considered an occlusive.
Learn more about Phenyl TrimethiconePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water