What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides
EmollientSqualane
EmollientShea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientLactic Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTribehenin
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingWater
Skin ConditioningOleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides, Squalane, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Synthetic Beeswax, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tribehenin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Water
Cocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasivePolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingAcrylates Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientVanillin
MaskingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialOctyldodecanol
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientQuaternium-90 Bentonite
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingMethyl Nicotinate
SoothingPropylene Carbonate
SolventSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningNiacin
SmoothingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingCocos Nucifera Oil, Beeswax, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polyethylene, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Acrylates Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Vanillin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phosphatidylcholine, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Tribehenin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Octyldodecanol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Methyl Nicotinate, Propylene Carbonate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeine, Niacin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is a fatty acid ester.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin