What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycereth-26
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
SolventVp/Va Copolymer
Methylpropanediol
SolventAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantNymphaea Caerulea Flower Water
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantPaeonia Suffruticosa Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Lactiflora Extract
AstringentCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantStephania Tetrandra Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSoluble Collagen
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningErgothioneine
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingMannitol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantUbiquinone
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingArtemisia Argyi Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningEDTA
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Vp/Va Copolymer, Methylpropanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Glyceryl Glucoside, Nymphaea Caerulea Flower Water, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Extract, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Stephania Tetrandra Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, BHT, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Soluble Collagen, Phospholipids, Ergothioneine, Retinol, Retinal, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Mannitol, Propylene Glycol, Ubiquinone, Centella Asiatica Extract, Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Cholesterol, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Ceramide NP, EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Glycerides Polyglyceryl-10 Esters
EmollientBetaine
HumectantPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveSqualane
EmollientMadecassoside
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingRetinyl Propionate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningAroma
Quaternium-73
Glycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides Polyglyceryl-10 Esters, Betaine, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Squalane, Madecassoside, Retinol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Xanthan Gum, Aminomethyl Propanol, Retinyl Propionate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Aroma, Quaternium-73, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids?
Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming:
The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoatePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water