What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycolic Acid
BufferingBentonite
AbsorbentBetaine
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingZinc PCA
HumectantTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantWater
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSodium Stearate
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientLactic Acid
BufferingIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Powder
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Powder
AbrasiveGlycolic Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialUbiquinone
AntioxidantSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPhytic Acid
Lysolecithin
EmulsifyingLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingLecithin
EmollientDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningCymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil
MaskingCitrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion StabilisingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPullulan
Butylene Glycol
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientCalophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
AntimicrobialPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingVinca Minor Extract
Skin ConditioningMahonia Aquifolium Root Extract
AstringentGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingWater, Kaolin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Sodium Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Squalane, Lactic Acid, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Powder, Parfum, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Powder, Glycolic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Cetearyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ubiquinone, Sclerotium Gum, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Phytic Acid, Lysolecithin, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lecithin, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Pullulan, Butylene Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Vinca Minor Extract, Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Hydroxyethylcellulose
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateGlycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural âglueâ that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (thatâs where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But donât skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless youâre highly sensitive, itâs well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidKaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Learn more about KaolinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.
Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum