What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPropanediol
SolventC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialStearic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantShorea Robusta Seed Butter
EmollientPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingParaffin
Skin ConditioningMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingPropylene Glycol
HumectantCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantRetinol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
CleansingDisodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingSodium Benzoate
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Shorea Robusta Seed Butter, PEG-40 Stearate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Propylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Glycine Soja Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Retinol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinyl Palmitate, Caffeine, Pentylene Glycol, Yeast Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Myristic Acid, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningMyristyl Myristate
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantStearic Acid
CleansingHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientParaffin
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientPetrolatum
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTriethanolamine
BufferingLauroyl Lysine
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialBisabolol
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
CleansingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeFarnesol
PerfumingCrithmum Maritimum Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Myristyl Myristate, Cetyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Paraffin, Palmitic Acid, Petrolatum, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Lauroyl Lysine, Carbomer, Glycine Soja Protein, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Bisabolol, Myristic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Silybum Marianum Extract, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Farnesol, Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine Soja Protein comes from the soybean. It is an emulsifer and helps to condition skin. Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating, such as water and oils.
Learn more about Glycine Soja Oil.
Myristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize, and therefore not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidParaffin is a solid wax that pulls its weight as an emollient, occlusive, and consistency-booster.
It softens skin and lays down a protective film to slow water loss and gives products a stable body and structure.
The cosmetic grade stuff is highly refined with a solid safety record. The CIR Expert Panel has repeatedly reaffirmed this ingredient to be safe in current practices of use and concentration.
The worry about carcinogenic compounds only applies to industrial grades, not the purified version used in skincare.
Despite its reputation, the highly reformed form is non-comedogenic and doesn't penetrate deeply into skin.
The good news for fungal-acne prone folks: the Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids and lipids and paraffin doesn't contain any of these (so there's nothing for the yeast to metabolize). This ingredient is considered fungal acne safe.
Learn more about ParaffinPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamatePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water