Paula's Choice Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer Versus FaceTheory Retinol Firming Moisturiser 0.3%
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning2,3-Butanediol
HumectantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cocoglycerides
Emollient
Ceramide Ag
Humectant
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Ceramide EOP
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide Ng
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingTrehalose
Humectant
Cholesterol
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Sodium Phytate
Urea
Buffering
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Emollient
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Sodium PCA
Humectant
Polyquaternium-51
Skin Conditioning
Triacetin
AntimicrobialSodium Polyacrylate
Absorbent
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexyl Stearate
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, 2,3-Butanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cocoglycerides, Ceramide Ag, Ceramide NP, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide AP, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Hexylene Glycol, Trehalose, Cholesterol, Squalane, Sodium Phytate, Urea, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium PCA, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Masking
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Emollient
Sodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialRetinol
Skin Conditioning
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Masking
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhospholipids
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Phytate
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Stearic Acid, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Retinol, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glyceryl Caprylate, Xanthan Gum, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Phytate, Limonene, Linalool
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
