What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Diethylhexyl Sebacate
EmollientGlycereth-26
Humectant
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Masking
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Milk Protein
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Ceteareth-20
CleansingSodium Polyacrylate
Absorbent
Parfum
Masking
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Steareth-20
CleansingN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningBHT
Antioxidant
Chrysin
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Benzoate
Antimicrobial
Coumarin
Perfuming
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Diethylhexyl Sebacate, Glycereth-26, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Retinol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Phenoxyethanol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Polyacrylate, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Steareth-20, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, BHT, Chrysin, Benzyl Benzoate, Coumarin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Isocetyl Stearate
Emollient
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Codium Tomentosum Extract
Skin ProtectingTripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture
Antioxidant
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Masking
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
PEG-100 Stearate
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Dimethicone
Emollient
Tricaprylin
Perfuming
Triethanolamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Preservative
Chlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
BHT
Antioxidant
Magnesium Chloride
Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isocetyl Stearate, Retinol, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Tripeptide-1, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Dimethicone, Tricaprylin, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Chlorphenesin, BHT, Magnesium Chloride
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.
Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.
As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.
Learn more about CyclohexasiloxaneCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
