What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientDiethylhexyl Sebacate
EmollientGlycereth-26
HumectantTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Milk Protein
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialCeteareth-20
CleansingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentParfum
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
Propylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSteareth-20
CleansingN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantChrysin
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCoumarin
PerfumingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Diethylhexyl Sebacate, Glycereth-26, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Retinol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Phenoxyethanol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Polyacrylate, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Steareth-20, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, BHT, Chrysin, Benzyl Benzoate, Coumarin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDimethicone
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPantolactone
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitric Acid
Buffering
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water