What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPPG-15 Stearyl Ether
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCeteareth-20
CleansingIsohexadecane
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyacrylamide
Cellulose
AbsorbentC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientLaureth-7
EmulsifyingDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingWater, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Dimethicone, Glycerin, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Isohexadecane, Retinol, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Cellulose, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, BHT, Ascorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientIsosorbide Dicaprylate
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientEthyl Linoleate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningSqualene
EmollientPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningHydroxyapatite
AbrasiveSodium PCA
HumectantDihydroxy Methylchromone
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingFructose
HumectantUrea
BufferingMaltose
MaskingTrehalose
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningTetraacetylphytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningGlycosphingolipids
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPhenylpropanol
MaskingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingEthyl Oleate
EmollientEthyl Palmitate
EmollientEthyl Stearate
EmollientEthyl Linolenate
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingPropanediol
SolventSodium Chloride
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientWater, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethyl Linoleate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Dimethicone, Retinol, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Squalene, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Hydroxyapatite, Sodium PCA, Dihydroxy Methylchromone, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Fructose, Urea, Maltose, Trehalose, Sodium Lactate, Allantoin, Glucose, Pentylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Glycosphingolipids, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Phenylpropanol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Ethyl Oleate, Ethyl Palmitate, Ethyl Stearate, Ethyl Linolenate, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Propanediol, Sodium Chloride, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water