Max Factor X Miracle Pure Vitamin C Skin-Illuminating Serum Versus Philosophy Dose of Wisdom Bouncy Skin Reactivating Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.
This hydrating serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Squalane to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingMannitol
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCellulose
Absorbent3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPolysorbate 80
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantParfum
MaskingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTriethyl Citrate
MaskingHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSimethicone
EmollientIron Oxides
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Mannitol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cellulose, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 80, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Parfum, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethyl Citrate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Simethicone, Iron Oxides, Mica, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSqualane
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingParfum
MaskingPlantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPEG-8
HumectantMica
Cosmetic ColorantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingSilica
AbrasiveDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHordeum Vulgare Extract
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantGanoderma Lucidum Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningSilanetriol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantAgave Americana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCitral
PerfumingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Alcohol Denat., Xanthan Gum, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Maltodextrin, Squalane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Parfum, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Lactobacillus, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Adenosine, PEG-8, Mica, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Pentylene Glycol, Limonene, Silica, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Silanetriol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Agave Americana Leaf Extract, Citral, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Titanium Dioxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Learn more about MicaParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum