What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCastor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sodium Lactate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeButylene Glycol
HumectantChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialTocopherol
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingIron Oxides
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Carbomer, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cellulose Gum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Oleate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Tocopherol, Parfum, Iron Oxides, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSqualane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPhosphatidylserine
Emulsion StabilisingOleuropein
AntioxidantPlantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingButyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Skin ConditioningGlaucium Flavum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Fruit Extract
EmollientOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningDunaliella Salina Extract
Skin ConditioningPeucedanum Graveolens Extract
TonicLinum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
PerfumingEuglena Gracilis Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract
Skin ProtectingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBentonite
AbsorbentHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientLecithin
EmollientSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPullulan
Propanediol
SolventCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Glycerin, C12-16 Alcohols, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Caffeine, Hexapeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Phosphatidylserine, Oleuropein, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Glaucium Flavum Leaf Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Peucedanum Graveolens Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Euglena Gracilis Extract, Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Bentonite, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Propanediol, Caprylyl Methicone, Butylene Glycol, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water