What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyisobutene
Synthetic Wax
AbrasiveButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingDaemonorops Draco Extract
AstringentTremella Fuciformis Extract
HumectantLupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCollagen Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantCollagen
MoisturisingPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPropylene Carbonate
SolventWater
Skin ConditioningPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyisobutene, Synthetic Wax, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dipropylene Glycol, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Daemonorops Draco Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract, Niacinamide, Adenosine, Collagen Extract, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Collagen, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Water, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantCanola Oil
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmollientPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingCucumis Melo Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Tristearate
EmulsifyingHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantNiacinamide
SmoothingWater
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Water
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCentella Asiatica Oil
AntimicrobialHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Dipropylene Glycol, Canola Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Cucumis Melo Seed Extract, Sorbitan Tristearate, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Adenosine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Niacinamide, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineThis is a lightweight diester (caprylic/capric acid + butylene glycol) with emollient and skin conditioning properties.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient can help add a "cushiony" oil phase without making it heavy.
Caprylic/capric glycerides are a mixture of fats from caprylic and capric acids.
As an emollient, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides helps soften and moisturize the skin. Emollients create a moisture-trapping film on the skin.
Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric GlyceridesDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolRosa Damascena Flower Water is the water-based byproduct of steam-distilling damask rose petals. It has skin conditioning, masking, and skin protecting properties.
Research shows that Rosa damascena is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds like gallic acid that contribute to its antioxidant activity.
In vitro studies have shown that Rosa damascena can scavenge free radicals and reduce melanin overproduction. Research has also found this extract offers some degree of UV absorption but this should not replace your sunscreen.
Learn more about Rosa Damascena Flower WaterSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterEuphorbia Cerifera Wax (aka candelilla wax) is a vegan stand-in for beeswax. It is a plant-derived wax that functions as an astringent, emulsion stabilizer, film-former, and skin conditioner.
On skin, it forms a protective barrier that helps lock in moisture while it enhances product stability, prevents separation, and helps color last longer in makeup.
This ingredient is generally safe for use in cosmetics with one nuance: some grades of candelilla wax can naturally contain benzyl alcohol at concentrations high enough to require declaration under EU labeling rules. This isn't a concern for most people but relevant for those with fragrance sensitivities.
Candelilla wax contains fatty acids (mainly C31) and wax esters that can be used by the Malassezia yeast, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might see Euphorbia Cerifera "Cera" instead of "wax". This is because some brands, databases, or labels use it interchangeably; they're the same ingredient.
Learn more about Euphorbia Cerifera Wax