What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingDibutyl Adipate
EmollientButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantVp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
UV AbsorberHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexyl Triazone
UV Absorber1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantSilica
AbrasiveXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
MaskingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantAlumina
AbrasiveStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingWater, CI 77891, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Distarch Phosphate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Saccharide Isomerate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77492, Silica, Xanthan Gum, CI 77491, Parfum, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, CI 77499, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientMica
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Olivate
Skin ConditioningC9-12 Alkane
SolventCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientDiglucosyl Gallic Acid
Squalane
EmollientSorbitan Sesquiisostearate
EmulsifyingPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
EmollientMorus Alba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCalcium Chloride
AstringentMaris Sal
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearate
CleansingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantQuercetin
AntioxidantPPG-8-Ceteth-20
EmulsifyingSodium Carrageenan
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantUbiquinone
AntioxidantAcrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Citrate
BufferingCeteareth-20
CleansingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate
EmulsifyingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Mica, Ethylhexyl Olivate, C9-12 Alkane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Squalane, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Calcium Chloride, Maris Sal, Sodium Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Quercetin, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, Sodium Carrageenan, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Ubiquinone, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Citrate, Ceteareth-20, Dipropylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum