What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCitrus Tangerina Extract
TonicButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantTranexamic Acid
AstringentNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventDipropylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingGlycerin
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Phytate
Ferulic Acid
AntimicrobialCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantAlkanna Tinctoria Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
PerfumingCananga Odorata Flower Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningYeast Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCandida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
AntimicrobialPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningNicotinamide Mononucleotide
AntioxidantNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningAdenosine Triphosphate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCalcium Pantothenate
Nonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Citrus Tangerina Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Panthenol, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Glycerin, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Phytate, Ferulic Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Beta-Glucan, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Gluconolactone, Yeast Ferment Extract, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Adenosine Triphosphate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Phosphatidylcholine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Calcium Pantothenate, Nonapeptide-1
Water
Skin ConditioningCitrus Tangerina Extract
TonicPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDiphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientVincetoxicum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCananga Odorata Flower Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
PerfumingCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantYeast Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCandida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDiphenyl Dimethicone
EmollientTranexamic Acid
AstringentHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAminomethyl Propanediol
BufferingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningOctanediol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingNicotinamide Mononucleotide
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAdenosine Triphosphate
Skin ConditioningNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningCalcium Pantothenate
Nonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingWater, Citrus Tangerina Extract, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vincetoxicum Atratum Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Yeast Ferment Extract, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tranexamic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanediol, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Cyanocobalamin, Beta-Glucan, Octanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dipropylene Glycol, Ferulic Acid, Gluconolactone, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Phosphatidylcholine, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine Triphosphate, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Calcium Pantothenate, Nonapeptide-1, Carbomer
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
You might know this ingredient as Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a more stable version of ascorbic acid.
Like other types of vitamin C, this ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid interferes with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. It also encourages the skin to produce more collagen.
Once applied, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is converted to Vitamin C deeper in the skin's layers. This process is slow but makes this ingredient more tolerable for skin.
The optimum pH range for this ingredient is 4 - 5.5
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAdenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineAdenosine Triphosphate is from the hydrolysis of nucleic acids in yeast. It comes from adenosine, one of the four building blocks for RNA.
Our bodies use Adenosine Triphosphate for energy at the cellular level.
It is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight off damage from free-radical molecules.
Adenosine Triphosphate may help with reducing irritation.
Learn more about Adenosine TriphosphateAscorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidAscorbyl Glucoside is a stable form of Vitamin C. It is created by combining glucose from starch.
When applied to skin, Ascorbyl Glucoside turns into Ascorbic Acid.
Ascorbyl Glucoside is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or molecules that may damage skin cells.
It can help to reduce redness, improve skin texture, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, and brighten skin.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Ascorbyl GlucosideBeta-Glucan is a polysaccharide. It can be derived from the cell walls of seaweed, oats, yeast, and fungi. It hydrates the skin and helps boost your skin's natural barrier.
As an antioxidant, beta-glucan helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Studies show this ingredient may be an effective wrinkle reducer as it can deeply penetrate into skin. It has also been show to help with wound healing.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCalcium Pantothenate is calcium salt from Vitamin B5. It can be naturally found in plants and animals.
Calcium Pantothenate is a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. This may help reduce the signs of aging.
Our bodies use Calcium Pantothenate for various metabolic functinos. These functions include metabolizing carbohydrates, proteins, and fatty acids.
Learn more about Calcium PantothenateCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds from the tea plant. This is the same plant we get green, black, and oolong tea from.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is rich in oleic acid. This makes it an effective moisturizer. By drawing moisture to the skin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil helps keep your skin hydrated.
Other components of Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil includes Vitamin E and polyphenols. These are antioxidants that may help slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or unstable molecules that can damage our skin cells.
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil also has anti-inflammatory properties.
The seed oil comes from the dried kernels of the plant.
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Seed OilCananga Odorata Flower Oil comes from the ylang-ylang flower, Cananga odorata.
Ylang-ylang oil has slight antibacterial, antioxidant and antifungal properties. However, it also contains a number of sensitizing ingredients such as geraniol, limonene, linalool and benzyl benzoate. These compounds are known EU allergens.
The composition of this ingredient depends on the source. Luxury perfumes tend to use higher grade ylang-ylang for their fragrance. Lower grade ylang-ylang is less fragrant.
Learn more about Cananga Odorata Flower OilThis ingredient is a biosurfactant ferment made when the yeast Candida bombicola ferments glucose plus methyl rapeseedate. This kind of ferment is best known for producing sophorolipids (a family of glycolipid biosurfactants) which brands use as mild cleansing agents.
What it does;
Lab work on purified acidic sophorolipids suggests they can be less cytotoxic/irritating in skin-model testing than a common harsh surfactant (SLES) at the tested conditions.
By the way, the final cosmetic ingredient does not contain live yeast. It’s a processed fermentation-derived ingredient.
Learn more about Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate FermentCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.
The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.
Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.
Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil is oil from the peel of an orange fruit.
Limonene and linalool make up the majority of oils from citrus peels. Limonene has a "citrus" fragrance. Citrus peels also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.
Citrus peel is also a rich source of flavonoids. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants and help protect your skin against damage. Flavonoids are a group of compounds naturally found in vegetables and fruits.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilCitrus Limon Peel Oil is created from the peels of the lemon. It is used to add a lemon-scent to products. Lemon peel oil also has antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. However, it may also cause phototoxicity and sensitize skin.
Lemon peel oil contains limonene, a skin sensitizing ingredient. Another component is furanocoumarin, which induces phototoxicity in skin.
Furanocoumarins bind and destabilize your DNA to increase the rate of sunburn.
Most reputable companies will remove furanocoumarins from their formulations.
Learn more about Citrus Limon Peel OilCitrus Tangerina Extract comes from the tangerine fruit native to the Korean peninsula. It is a tonic, meaning it helps remove extra residue and hydrate the skin.
Citrus Tangerina has exhibited antioxidant and antibacterial properties. It is rich in ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C.
Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinEucalyptus globulus leaf extract comes from the leaves of the blue gum tree. It has perfuming and skin conditioning properties.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient has antioxidants to help protect skin against free radicals.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf ExtractFerulic Acid is a plant based antioxidant that can be naturally found in the cell walls of grains like rice, oats, and corn. It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, and has the ability to boost the performance of other antioxidants as well.
A well-known study found that adding Ferulic Acid to a solution of Vitamins C and E doubled the photoprotection of skin. This is why you'll often see it paired with Vitamin C or Vitamin E serums rather than sold on its own.
A 2025 review of 18 human studies found that using Ferulic Acid (0.5-1%) daily for one to three months showed improvements in:
As far as allergies go, Ferulic acid is generally well-tolerated but can cause an allergic reaction in very rare cases. It's also worth noting that Ferulic acid is often extracted from plant sources like rice bran or wheat bran, so be sure to path test if you have known grain allergies.
Outside of skincare, researchers are also looking into Ferulic Acid for its potential benefits in areas like diabetes, Alzheimer's, and heart health.
Learn more about Ferulic AcidGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinLavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia OilNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideThis ingredient is also called NAD+.
It is a coenzyme naturally found in every living cell where it plays a role in energy metabolism, DNA repair, and the activation of enzymes that maintain cellular health. Niacinamide is one of its key precursors.
Our NAD+ levels naturally decline with age and several DNA repair mechanisms critical to skin health are directly dependent on NAD+ to function.
In-vitro studies on human fibroblasts have shown that exogenous NAD+ can protect agsinst UV-induced extrinsic and intrinsic aging.
Here's a big caveat: NAD+ is a large, polar moleculate that has difficult penetrating the skin's stratum corneum. It also degrades quickly when exposed to light, heat, or pH changes. That's why brands prefer to use smaller, more stable precursors like NMN or NR.
The optimal stability for NAD+ is a pH of 6-7.5 and it is typically used in concentration ranges from 0.5-2%.
If you're looking for the most well-studied topical route to support your skin's NAD+, niacinamide is your best bet.
Learn more about Nicotinamide Adenine DinucleotideNicotinamide Mononucleotide, or NMN, is a nucleotide derived from niacin and a precursor to NAD+.
NAD+ is a coenzyme that is used for cellular energy production, DNA repair, and signaling protein activation. These all slow down as we age and as NAD+ levels decline.
In lab and animal studies, NMN has demonstrated:
This ingredient also breaks down into niacinamide even as it degrades.
There are two major caveats to this ingredient:
1) It is not stable and degrades quickly in water-based formulations.
2) Most of the skin data is still prelinical (cell and animal studies) and human clinical trials are still limited.
Nonapeptide-1 is created from amino acids including arginine and lysine.
It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.
Emerging studies show Nonapeptide-1 to help with reducing pigmentation and brightening the skin. It has shown to prevent the activation of tyrosinase, an enzyme in the skin that begins the process of melanin creation. Melanin is responsible for giving skin a tan or dark spots.
Learn more about Nonapeptide-1Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhosphatidylcholine (PC) is a type of phospholipid, a class of molecule that makes up our own cell membranes.
It has a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails (mostly linoleic, palmitic, and oleic), and a phosphate-choline head group.
In skincare, PC pulls double duty:
The linoleic acid it carries gets incorporated into skin ceramides and helps reinforce the lipid matrix.
Interestingly, it can help top of the omega-6 fatty acid that's often low in acne-prone and atopic skin. There's a sizeable body of literature that supports its use in dry, barrier-impaired, and breakout-prone skin.
There are two kinds of PC you'll see on ingredient lists.
Use levels range from <1% as a liposomal carrier and between 20-40% in lamellar matrix sytems.
Learn more about PhosphatidylcholinePolyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser. On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).
Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids If you're prone to flare-ups, you might want to patch-test or skip this one.
This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 LauratePolyglyceryl-10 Oleate is made by combining ten units of glycerin with oleic acid.
According to a manufacturer, it is a low-irritation and hydrophilic (water loving) skin conditioning agent. It also improves the sensory feel and texture of a product.
The Malassezia yeast survives by eating certain fats, including oleic acid. Since this ingredient is made from oleic acid, it might not be fungal acne safe. However, it should be noted this oleic acid is chemically bound to a large polyglycerol molecule, so it might not trigger fungal acne for everyone.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 OleatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is the salt of ascorbic acid.
This ingredient is commonly used in skincare because it's more formulation-stable while still offering the same benefits as pure ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and oxygen whereas SAP has been shown to be more stable.
Studies show SAP has anti-acne and antioxidant benefits. One study found 5% of SAP lotion to be an effective ingredient for treating acne vulgaris. This is because research shows that SAP may help control acne by reducing acne-causing bacteria and slowing the oxidation of skin oils caused by UV exposure.
In addition to acne, vitamin C is important for skin structure. Lab studies suggest SAP may support collagen production in skin cells, making it a great ingredient in anti-aging routines.
Vitamin C has many benefits: it helps reduce redness, improve skin texture, fade the appearance of dark spots, and brighten the skin.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Sodium Ascorbyl PhosphateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic lysine derivative that is becoming one of the most exciting brightening ingredients in skincare.
Originally used in medicine as an anti-hemorrhagic agent, its skin brightening potential was discovered by accident; patients taking it orally started noticing their melasma was fading.
Unlike most brighteners that target tyrosinase (the enzyme that synthesizes melanin), TXA works further upstream. It basically blocks your cells from receiving the signal to produce pigment.
This makes it one of the rare actives that works on three pathways at once:
This makes it effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun-induced dark spots.
The most effective cosmetic concentration sits between 2-5% and going higher doesn't boost results.
Side effects are generally mild; occasional irritation, flaking, or dryness have been reported at the start of use. Overall, this ingredient is pretty well tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it does not cause photosensitivity, so it's safe to use in the AM and PM.
Learn more about Tranexamic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterWe don't have a description for Yeast Ferment Extract yet.