What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningYeast Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingTerminalia Catappa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Palm Glycerides
EmollientSambucus Nigra Flower Extract
RefreshingParfum
MaskingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingTannic Acid
AstringentCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAlcohol
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLeontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Cicer Seed Extract
Skin ProtectingDisodium EDTA
Biosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingLinalool
PerfumingSodium Benzoate
MaskingLactic Acid
BufferingPantolactone
HumectantBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lactobacillus, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Terminalia Catappa Leaf Extract, Propylene Glycol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Parfum, Pvp, Tannic Acid, Carbomer, Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Cicer Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Hydroxide, Linalool, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Pantolactone, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Geraniol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientXylitylglucoside
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveAnhydroxylitol
HumectantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientXylitol
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBisabolol
AntioxidantAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlucose
HumectantO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialBiosaccharide Gum-2
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingCholesterol
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantAlanyl Glutamine
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingLysine
Skin ConditioningOleic Acid
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientPhenylalanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningScenedesmus Rubescens Extract
Skin ConditioningBetula Alba Oil
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Oligopeptide-177
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Ascorbate
AntioxidantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xylitylglucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Silica, Anhydroxylitol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Xylitol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Bisabolol, Alcohol, Glucose, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Biosaccharide Gum-2, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Alanyl Glutamine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Arginine, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Lysine, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Phenylalanine, Proline, Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract, Betula Alba Oil, Disodium EDTA, Oligopeptide-177, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Ascorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum