What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantSqualane
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingEclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentCholesterol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningGlycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingFructooligosaccharides
HumectantAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningRaffinose
Skin ConditioningSucrose Distearate
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingCeteareth-20
CleansingPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveCynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTetrahydropiperine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Phloretin
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingWater, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Squalane, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Tromethamine, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Retinal, Silica, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Glycosyl Trehalose, Fructooligosaccharides, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Beta-Glucan, Raffinose, Sucrose Distearate, Adenosine, Cellulose Gum, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Ceteareth-20, Polyquaternium-51, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Caprylyl Glycol, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrahydropiperine, Disodium EDTA, Phloretin, Arginine
Water
Skin ConditioningTriethylhexanoin
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Ceteareth-33
CleansingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Oenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Retinal
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Glucoside
EmollientOleoyl Dipeptide-15
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSilica
AbrasiveBHT
AntioxidantOleoyl Tetrapeptide-31
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Triethylhexanoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ceteareth-20, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ceteareth-33, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Retinal, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Oleoyl Dipeptide-15, Mica, Sodium Hydroxide, Silica, BHT, Oleoyl Tetrapeptide-31, Tocopherol, Titanium Dioxide, Caramel, CI 17200
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTARetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water