What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientCyclomethicone
EmollientPEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer
SolventSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientTri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate
EmollientMyrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMalpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantLilium Tigrinum Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialChrysanthemum Indicum Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientAcanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMalva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBuddleja Davidii Extract
Skin ConditioningThymus Vulgaris Extract
PerfumingCamellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract
PerfumingPhaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Methyl Gluceth-20, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Diisostearyl Malate, Cyclomethicone, PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Adenosine, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arginine, Carbomer, Panthenol, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract, Chrysanthemum Indicum Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningButoxyethanol
MaskingArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingParfum
MaskingYeast
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningMalt Extract
Skin ProtectingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHexyldecanol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingLavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Butoxyethanol, Arginine, Carbomer, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Polysorbate 60, Beeswax, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Parfum, Yeast, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Malt Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Panthenol, Hexyldecanol, Ceramide NP, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed CollagenPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water