What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingMannose
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Lauryl Sulfate
Cleansing2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientVitreoscilla Ferment
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Menthoxypropanediol
MaskingPolyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer
Tocopherol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Alcohol Denat., Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Mannose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Ceramide NP, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Cholesterol, Adenosine, Magnesium Gluconate, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Menthoxypropanediol, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantIsocetyl Stearate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantStearyl Heptanoate
EmollientPEG-8 Stearate
EmulsifyingMannose
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Caprylate
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientAlteromonas Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentMyristic Acid
CleansingMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Vitreoscilla Ferment
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 60730
Cosmetic ColorantCI 60725
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Isocetyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Stearyl Heptanoate, PEG-8 Stearate, Mannose, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Caprylate, Glycine Soja Oil, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Myristic Acid, Myristyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Cetyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 60730, CI 60725, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholBenzyl Salicylate is a solvent and fragrance additive. It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid. This ingredient can be naturally found in some plants and plant extracts.
In fragrances, Benzyl Salicylate may be a solvent or a fragrance component. In synthetic musk scents, it is used as a solvent. For floral fragrances such as lilac and jasmine, it is used as a fragrance component. The natural scent of Benzyl Salicylate is described as "lightly-sweet, slightly balsamic".
While Benzyl Salicylate has been associated with contact dermatitis and allergies, emerging studies show it may not be caused by this ingredient alone.
However, this ingredient is often used with fragrances and other components that may cause allergies. It is still listed as a known allergen in the EU. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Another study from 2021 shows Benzyl Salicylate may have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Benzyl SalicylateCI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140Citral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilHydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine helps your skin create more ceramides. This ingredient has been shown to boost skin hydration and improve the skin barrier.
Your skin has an outermost layer called the stratum corneum. This is known as your skin barrier.
Your skin barrier consists of cholesterol (25%), free fatty acids (15%), and ceramides (50-60%). A healthy skin barrier is the key to hydrated and plump skin. Your skin is able to retain more moisture with a nourished barrier.
Although small, the skin barrier prevents bacteria and other bad things from going into our bodies. A damaged skin barrier can lead to itchy and dry skin, acne, or bacterial/viral/fungal skin infections.
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine tells your skin to create more ceramides. This helps fortify your skin barrier. Having a strong skin barrier leads to hydrated and healthy skin. More good news? You don't need a high amount of this ingredient to see benefits.
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine is created from a chemical reaction using an amino alcohol (dihydrosphingosine) and a fatty acid palmitic acid (2- 11 bromohexadecanoic acid).
Other ingredients that tell your skin to create more ceramide:
Learn more about Hydroxypalmitoyl SphinganineLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolWe don't have a description for Mannose yet.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolVitreoscilla Ferment is a probiotic derived from the Vitreoscilla bacteria.
Studies show Vitreoscilla Ferment to have the same benefits as ingesting probiotics. Probiotics help keep the bacteria in your body healthy.
In general, maintaining a healthy microbiome on your skin has many benefits. One benefit is protection against external and bad bacteria. A healthy microbiome also helps maintain skin hydration and reduce inflammation.
Probiotics work best when combined with prebiotics.
Learn more about Vitreoscilla FermentWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water