What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantUrea
BufferingCarnosine
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether
EmulsifyingTremella Fuciformis Extract
HumectantBetaine
HumectantEpigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
AntioxidantResveratrol
AntioxidantAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningTrifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-10 Citrulline
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Camellia Sinensis Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
AntioxidantDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-9 Diglycidyl Ether/Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientCitrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialWater, Glycerin, Urea, Carnosine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Betaine, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Resveratrol, Astaxanthin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Palmitoyl Camellia Sinensis Extract, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Superoxide Dismutase, Hyaluronic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-9 Diglycidyl Ether/Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Isohexadecane, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Retinal, Chlorphenesin
Water
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Palmitoyl Proline
Skin ConditioningNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCeteareth-25
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenic Acid
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide Eos
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCaprooyl Phytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCaprooyl Sphingosine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantTetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Chloride
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingPropylene Glycol
HumectantAsparagopsis Armata Extract
Skin ProtectingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Callus Extract
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningPolyvinyl Alcohol
Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientPhenylpropanol
MaskingOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientUbiquinone
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSodium Nitrate
SoothingGlyoxal
AntimicrobialEthoxydiglycol
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantWater, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Alpha-Arbutin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Retinal, Ascorbic Acid, Phospholipids, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Butylene Glycol, Ceteareth-25, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, Cholesterol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Oleate, Citric Acid, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Magnesium Chloride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Propylene Glycol, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Callus Extract, Xanthan Gum, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenylpropanol, Oligopeptide-1, Squalane, Ubiquinone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Nitrate, Glyoxal, Ethoxydiglycol, Hyaluronic Acid
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Learn more about Hyaluronic AcidPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Retinal is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the gold-standard class of anti-aging ingredients.
Retinal has many benefits as other retinoids: improve skin texture, reduce large pores, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, heal scars, and fight acne.
Studies show retinal may work at a faster rate than retinol due to its structure.
All retinoids have to be converted into retinoic acid before starting to work. Some retinoids take several steps of conversion before binding. Retinal is only one step away, making it more potent.
Like other retinoids, retinal may be irritating. It is best to ease into using this ingredient frequently.
Using the 'ramp up' method, start by using retinol once a week. This gives your skin time to adjust and decrease irritation. Once you feel ready, you can slowly increase the frequency of retinol use.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Learn more about RetinalWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum