What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventMethylpropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingVincetoxicum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningPhellinus Linteus Extract
Skin ConditioningAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningChitosan
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantBetaine
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Isostearate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Glutathione
Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlucosylrutin
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCholesterol
EmollientAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialMadecassoside
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingDipotassium Phosphate
BufferingAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Vincetoxicum Atratum Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Chitosan, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Betaine, Allantoin, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Sodium Phytate, Glutathione, Beta-Glucan, Pentylene Glycol, Glucosylrutin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ceramide NP, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Madecassoside, Tocopherol, Lactic Acid, Dipotassium Phosphate, Acetyl Glutamine, Cellulose Gum, Caffeine, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialCamellia Japonica Flower Extract
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingSalicylic Acid
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantC12-14 Pareth-12
EmulsifyingLactobionic Acid
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDisodium EDTA
Lactose
HumectantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningPerilla Ocymoides Seed Extract
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningLonicera Caprifolium Extract
AstringentPelargonium Graveolens Extract
MaskingUncaria Tomentosa Extract
Skin ConditioningAgrimonia Eupatoria Extract
AstringentCorydalis Turtschaninovii Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract
PerfumingNepeta Cataria Extract
TonicMadecassoside
AntioxidantCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingWater, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arginine, Salicylic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, C12-14 Pareth-12, Lactobionic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Disodium EDTA, Lactose, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Seed Extract, Panthenol, Lonicera Caprifolium Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Extract, Uncaria Tomentosa Extract, Agrimonia Eupatoria Extract, Corydalis Turtschaninovii Root Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract, Nepeta Cataria Extract, Madecassoside, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCapryloyl Salicylic Acid comes from salicylic acid, the famous acne-fighting BHA.
It usually goes by a more common name of LHA, or lipohydroxy acid.
Like salicylic acid, this ingredient is a chemical exfoliant that can help break down the oil in your pores and reduce inflammation.
Though studies for LHA do show it to be less effective than salicylic acid. To be fair, salicylic acid is the reigning monarch of acne treatments.
However, a study from 2009 found LHA to be comparable to BPO, making it a good alternative for people with sensitive skin. Another study of 14 patients found a significant decrease in comedones after using LHA.
Another pro of LHA? It is less irritating than salicylic acid due to its large molecule size.
Large molecules cannot penetrate skin as well, so they are gentler on the skin. LHA is much less penetrative than salicylic acid.
An in-vitro study (not done on a living organism) found only 6% of LHA penetrated past the statum corneum compared to 58% of salicylic acid. An in-vivo (done on a living organism) analysis revealed ~17% of LHA was still present in the top layer of skin after 4 days, versus ~9% of salicylic acid.
Interestingly, a study from 2008 found LHA comparable to another famous acid, glycolic acid.
This study found about 10% of LHA is as effective as 20-50% of glycolic acid in treating hyperpigmentation and fine-lines.
Hydroxy acids have been found to stimulate skin protein, lipids, and thermal thickening. This may have anti-aging benefits.
Learn more about Capryloyl Salicylic AcidEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneMadecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.
There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:
Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.
Learn more about MadecassosidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water