Herbar The Sun Shield SPF 30
A sunscreen with 38 ingredients, including niacinamide, spf, and vitamin E.
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.
We independently verify ingredients, backed by peer-reviewed research. Suggest an update.
What's inside
Ingredients List
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV FilterNiacinamide
SmoothingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
UV AbsorberSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingSqualane
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSchizophyllan
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningLimonia Acidissima Extract
Skin ConditioningTremella Fuciformis Extract
HumectantInonotus Obliquus Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDendrobium Nobile Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Zinc Oxide, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Niacinamide, Isononyl Isononanoate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Sorbitan Stearate, Squalane, Panthenol, Ectoin, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Schizophyllan, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Saccharomyces Ferment, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Ubiquinone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Astaxanthin, Limonia Acidissima Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dendrobium Nobile Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Beta-Glucan
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinZinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.
On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.
Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.
That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).
The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.
So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.
Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.
That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.
It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.
This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.
Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.
The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.
Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.
The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.
Another thing worth understanding about formulation:
Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.
A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.
Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).
Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.
As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.
This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.
The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.
Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".
You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.
So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.
The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.
Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.
A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.
The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.
So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.
If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.
Learn more about Zinc OxideThis ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.
It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.
Another pro?
It's exceptionally photostable, barely degrades in sunlight, and acts as a "bodyguard" for less stable filters.
That's why you'll see it paired with avobenzone or octinoxate; this team up ensures they keep working through sun exposure.
Safety reviews have been reassuring across the board. This ingredient shows low absorption through the skin, rarely irritates, and lab studies found it doesn't act like a hormone in the body (a concern that's been raised about some older sunscreen filters).
On maximum concentrations:
In 2026, the US F.D.A finally added it as an OTC sunscreen ingredient at concentrations up to 6% for adults / children 6 months and older
Learn more about Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl TriazineThis ingredient is also known as Tinosorb M or Bisoctrizole and is a bit of an overachiever in the sunscreen world.
It's a hybrid broad-spectrum filter that covers UVA and UVB (~280-400nm) with peak absorption around 305nm for UVB or 360nm for UVA (and a tiny bit in blue-light territory as well).
One of its best party tricks is photostability; it doesn't break down with repeated sun exposure and doesn't generate free radicals in the process either. You'll also see it paired with wobbly filters like avobenzone because it helps stabilize them.
The safety profile is assuring as well. Because it's a large molecule, it doesn't easily absorb into skin and rarely causes irritation.
It's approved in the EU, Asia, and Australia up to 10% and most formulas land somewhere in the 2-10% range.
You won't find it as a sunscreen active in the US, but it can make an appearance as a formula-protecting UV-absorber.
Learn more about Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl TetramethylbutylphenolNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideIsononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic skin-conditioner and texture enhancer. It is created from nonanoic acid, a fatty acid found in cocoa and lavender oil.
As an emollient, Isononyl Isononanoate helps keep your skin soft and smooth. This is because emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in.
Isononyl Isononanoate helps give products a velvet feel and improves spreadability.
Learn more about Isononyl IsononanoateThis ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.
As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:
A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.
One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.
Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.
Why is this so cool?
Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad" skin bacteria S. aureus loves to move in when your barrier is weak to make inflammation and irritation worse.
So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.
On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.
Just so you know, most studies focus on specific strains or the lysate form rather than this generic "Lactobacillus Ferment", so results can vary.
Though it's a promising ingredient, it doesn't have decades of robust clinical data behind it just yet.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus FermentPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (aka Ensulizole) is a chemical UV filter that's a bit of a unicorn in the sunscreen world: it's water-soluble where most organic filters are oil-based.
Being water-solubility is the headline because it feels lightweight and non-greasy in formulations. This makes it suitable for oily or acne-prone skin in gel/water-based products.
Ensulizole primarily protects against UVB radiation (~290-320 nm) but offers some minimal UVA protection. You'll see it often paired with UVA filters to ensure broad-spectrum coverage.
Interestingly, it can help boost SPF and stabilize finicky filters when combined with other UVB absorbers.
The FDA has approved this ingredient for OTC sunscreens up to 4% and the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products concluded that up to 8% is allowed in cosmetics.
In practice, you'll most likely see it formulated around 1-4%.
Safety-wise, it is neither irritating nor sensitizing, shows no photoallergenic potential, and in vivo tests show no mutagenic potential.
You might see discussion about the "double-edged sword" effect of this ingredient. This is because lab tests done on cells in a dish (not on humans) showed Ensulizole can create small amounts of unstable molecules called free radicals that can damage DNA when exposed to UV light. It sounds scary but this is just test-tube research. There hasn't been proof that this can happen when used in a sunscreen on skin.
Learn more about Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic AcidSorbitan Stearate is an emulsifier made by reacting sorbitol with stearic acid.
It's mostly used to keep oil and water mixed so your formulas stay smooth and stable.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has found 4% of this ingredient in repeat-insult patch tests on humans to be non-sensitizing. There is a caveat that some reactions have shown up in patients with damaged or diseased skin.
Because it is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize. This means this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan StearateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualanePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolEctoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.
This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.
When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.
Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:
A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.
Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.
In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:
Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.
Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.
The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.
Learn more about EctoinGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract comes from Chinese licorice. This plant is native to Asia and used in Chinese traditional medicine. Chinese licorice root contains antioxidants and polysaccharides.
Antioxidants may help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Polysaccharides help moisturize the skin due to their ability to mimic our natural skin barrier.
We don't have a description for Schizophyllan yet.
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateAllantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinSaccharomyces Ferment is what you get when you ferment yeast from Saccharomyces genus and keep the ferment rather than just the strained liquid.
You can think of it like the water-like version of Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate.
As yeast eats through its growth medium, it leaves behind a nutrient soup of amino acids, peptides, vitamins, and minerals.
The component with the most actual research behind it, beta-glucan, is a polysaccharide that acts as a barrier-supportive humectant with antioxidant and skin-soothing properties.
Typical use concentrations range from 1-3%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient may not be considered fungal-acne safe. Even though Saccharomyces isn't the same yeast as Malassezia, fermentation can produce fatty acids in the C11-24 range that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Saccharomyces FermentBifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.
These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.
One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.
A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.
In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.
This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.
The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.
Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about Bifida Ferment LysateLactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic with skin soothing properties. Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient comes from the secretion of the bacteria, Lactobacillus.
Studies show this ingredient can help calm redness and may help treat the signs of photoaging; however, the evidence is inconclusive and further studies are needed.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment LysateUbiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) is a molecule already found in our bodies. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing ingredient.
Aging and environmental exposure diminishes our skin's natural ubiquinone levels. This is much like our natural collagen and elastin.
The good news is: studies show applying this ingredient topically replenishes ubiquinone levels in our skin. This also comes with a ton of skin benefits. These benefits include:
Ubiquinone is considered a large molecule and cannot be absorbed into the lower layers of skin. This is why it is believed to be such an effective antioxidant: it protects our skin in the upper layers and prevents damage in the deeper layers.
When used in sunscreen, ubiquinone is shown to increase ingredient stability, increase SPF factor, and add to infrared protection.
Fun fact: ubiquinone is fat-soluble.
Learn more about UbiquinoneSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateThis ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.
You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.
According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:
One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.
Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateThis extract comes from a tiny freshwater green microalga that can be found all over the world. It's special because it can produce massive amounts of Astaxanthin, a bright reddish-orange carotenoid pigment that is considered one of nature's most powerful antioxidants.
The algae starts pumping out Astaxanthin as a defense mechanism whenever it gets stressed out by things like intense sunlight or lack of nutrients.
This extract comes as a red-tinted, oily liquid and is packed with carotenoids, proteins, lipids, and minerals.
Astaxanthin is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause oxidative damage to your skin. It is also lipophilic, meaning it loves fats. This lets it concentrate in the outer layers of your skin where UV damage tends to hit first.
Research suggests it outperforms other well-known antioxidants like Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Beta-Carotene in terms of scavenging ability. It can also help inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (the enzymes that break down collagen) and can stimulate growth factor secretion to support collagen production in dermal fibroblasts.
Clinical studies have shown that combining oral supplementation (6 mg/day) with topical application of astaxanthin from H. pluvialis led to improvements in wrinkles, age spots, elasticity, skin texture, and moisture content.
This ingredient is generally considered safe and well-tolerated in both topical and oral applications. In cosmetics, you'll see typical concentrations range from 0.1-2%. Allergic reactions are rare and be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
It's worth noting that about 95% of Astaxanthin on the market is made synthetically from petrochemicals.
Learn more about Haematococcus Pluvialis ExtractAstaxanthin is a carotene pigment and red pigment. It is a promising antioxidant with a ton of skin benefits.
This antioxidant has great anti-aging benefits by blocking the following:
Astaxanthin is also great at soothing skin due to its ability to block molecules that signal inflammation. It is currently being studied for preventing chronic inflammatory diseases.
Plus, a study from 2012 found Astaxanthin in liposomes protected mouse skin from UV-damage.
Fun fact: Astaxanthin is responsible for giving salmon a pink color.
Learn more about AstaxanthinWe don't have a description for Limonia Acidissima Extract yet.
Tremella Fuciformis Extract comes from the tremella fuciformis mushroom, also known as snow mushroom or white jelly mushroom.
The snow mushroom has moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
Snow mushroom is rich in polysaccharides, giving it moisturizing benefits. As a humectant, snow mushroom helps draw moisture from the air to the skin. Polysaccharides are able to mimic our skin's natural carbohydrates to help the skin retain water.
Snow mushroom has been shown to help with anti-aging due to its antioxidants. It increases the presence of superoxide dismutase in our brain and liver. Superoxide is a by-product of oxygen metabolism. It left unregulated, superoxide causes cell damage. Thus, superoxide dismutase acts as an antioxidant to protect our living cells.
Another study from 2016 showed snow mushroom extract blocks the skin from creating melanin when exposed to UVB. Thus, it may help protect against the signs of aging from sun exposure. However, more studies are needed to confirm this. Another study from 2021 found snow mushroom to protect against UVA damage as well.
This white mushroom is native to Asian countries such as China, Korea, Japan, and Thailand. It is a common ingredient in traditional Chinese cuisine and medicine.
Learn more about Tremella Fuciformis ExtractThis ingredient is also known as the chaga mushroom. It is a fungus that grows on birch trees.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
We don't have a description for Dendrobium Nobile Stem Extract yet.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is a botanical extract pulled from the leaves of aloe vera and one of the most studied plant ingredients in cosmetics.
The inner leaf gel it comes from is mostly water (~99-99.5%) and the remaining fraction is made up of pretty good stuff: polysaccharides, vitamins, phenolics, and enzymes.
Its headline job is hydration.
The star polysaccharide in aloe, acemannan, is a humectant that retains moisture and helps reduce trans-epidermal water loss.
Aloe also has real soothing credentials; it contains anti-inflammatory compounds like bradykinase and C-glucosyl chromone that help calm irritation and redness.
On the repair side, lab work shows that acemannan wakes up your skin's repair cells (fibroblasts), prompting them to multiply and speed up healing.
There's some human data for cosmetic benefit too: a cream containing 10% Aloe Barbadensis leaf extract improved skin hydration and elasticity in a real-use study.
Safety-wise, this ingredient is well-regarded with just one rare downside; there have been some case reports of acute eczema, contact urticaria, and dermatitis in people who applied aloe-derived ingredients topically. Those with a known aloe or Liliaceae sensitivity should patch test.
Typical use levels range widely, from under 1% up to 90%+ depending on the format and the effect you are after.
Learn more about Aloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractGinseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.
In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.
One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.
Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.
There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.
Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.
For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.
In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.
Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root ExtractHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract comes from the Goji Berry. Goji berries are native to China and can be found across Eurasia.
Goji berries contain polysaccharides, carotenoids and flavonoids. Antioxidants help your body fight off free-radical molecules. These molecules are unstable and may damage your skin. By making free-radicals more stable, antioxidants can help with anti-aging.
Polysaccharides help hydrate the top layer of skin due to its ability to mimic natural carbohydrates.
Learn more about Lycium Barbarum Fruit ExtractChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.
Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.
Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.
Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.
Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.
Learn more about Chamomilla Recutita Flower ExtractBeta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanReviews
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Where it's from
Herbar is a German brand
30 SPF Rating
With an SPF rating of 30, this product protects against 96.7% of UVB rays
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Read more about us· Updated April 6, 2026 • Added by chiaracapony