The Joy lab Powerful Force Serum Facial Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Intensive Ampoule
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningAphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharide
AbsorbentPropanediol
SolventUndecylenoyl Glycine
CleansingPolyglyceryl-6 Stearate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Emulsion StabilisingPullulan
Dimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAlgin
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlyceryl Polyacrylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
ChelatingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingParfum
MaskingWater, Betaine, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Aphanothece Sacrum Polysaccharide, Propanediol, Undecylenoyl Glycine, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Pullulan, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Algin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Disodium EDTA, Aminomethyl Propanol, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHydroxystearic Acid
CleansingBetaine
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Phytate
ChelatingStearic Acid
CleansingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningSucrose Distearate
EmollientPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningLauric Acid
CleansingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Arginine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxystearic Acid, Betaine, Panthenol, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Sodium Polyacrylate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Phytate, Stearic Acid, Ceramide NP, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Lactobacillus Ferment, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Phytosphingosine, Asiatic Acid, Sucrose Distearate, Polyglutamic Acid, Lauric Acid, Phytosterols
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum