What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPEG-8
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningMangifera Indica Seed Oil
EmollientMangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-7
Disodium EDTA
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Glycerin, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Polyquaternium-7, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, CI 19140, Parfum, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool
Sea Water
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingWater
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingLauric Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cocoyl Glycinate
SurfactantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingPCA
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCholesterol
EmollientAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningTilia Europaea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialViola Odorata Flower Extract
MaskingAbelmoschus Esculentus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAlgae Oligosaccharides
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingStearic Acid
CleansingPolyquaternium-7
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Benzoate
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantCapric Acid
CleansingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingSea Water, Glycerin, Myristic Acid, Water, Palmitic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Ceramide NP, Alanine, Serine, PCA, Dipropylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Tilia Europaea Flower Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Viola Odorata Flower Extract, Abelmoschus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Algae Oligosaccharides, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Stearic Acid, Polyquaternium-7, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Capric Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citronellol, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and even breast milk.
In cosmetics, it is an:
Lab studies have found that lauric acid is surprisingly good at killing acne-causing bacteria. However, these tests were done on bacteria in a petri dish and not on real skin, so we can't say for certain it works the same in a formulation on a real face.
The comedogenic rating of 4 comes from the 1972 rabbit ear model using undiluted ingredients. Comedogenicity is highly individual and one comedogenic ingredient cannot predict how a formula will behave on skin.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe and research has confirmed Malassezia can use it as a food source.
Learn more about Lauric AcidLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneMyristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize, and therefore not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidPhytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.
Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.
Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.
Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.
More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:
Learn more about PhytosphingosinePolyquaternium-7 is a light to clear colored liquid. It is commonly found in haircare products for its film-forming and anti-static properties.
According to a manufacturer, it is a non-paraben and specially developed for negatively charged surfactant systems. This makes it a great hairstyle holder and helps to improve wet hair detangling without adding buildup.
Potassium hydroxide is commonly known as caustic potash. It is used to fix the pH of a product or as a cleaning agent in soap. In cleansers, it is used for the saponification of oils.
Sapnification is the process of creating fatty acid metal salts from triglycerides and a strong base. During this process, Potassium Hydroxide is used up and is not present in the final product.
Using high concentrations of Potassium Hydroxide have shown to irritate the skin.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxideStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water