What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativeParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAmodimethicone
Polyquaternium-37
Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantParfum
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialC13-16 Isoalkane
SolventTrideceth-6
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientGlycine
BufferingSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantAlanine
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTaurine
BufferingHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantAspartic Acid
MaskingHydrolyzed Corn Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantArginine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningKeratin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningOxidized Keratin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Steartrimonium Chloride, Paraffinum Liquidum, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-37, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Parfum, Chlorphenesin, C13-16 Isoalkane, Trideceth-6, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethiconol, Glycine, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Alanine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Taurine, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Arginine, Glutamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Keratin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Oxidized Keratin, Hydrolyzed Keratin
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCeteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativeDimethicone
EmollientAmodimethicone
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeAlcohol
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantParfum
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingDimethiconol
EmollientBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Cetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialTrideceth-12
EmulsifyingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrated Silica
AbrasiveDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSodium Phosphate
BufferingHoney Extract
HumectantWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Ceteartrimonium Chloride, Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Dimethiconol, Benzyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrated Silica, Disodium Phosphate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Phosphate, Honey Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholThis water-soluble silicone is used for its hydrating and softening properties. It is used to add a silky feel to skincare products and has great benefits for haircare.
In haircare, this ingredient:
- Adds shine
- Protects color
- Offers thermal protection
- Boosts hair strength
- Does not build up as easily
You may know this ingredient as argan oil. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties that help soften skin and reinforce the lipid barrier.
The fatty acid profile of argan oil is roughly 45-55% oleic acid, 28-36% linoleic acid, 10-15% palmitic acid, and 5-7% stearic acid. It also contains vitamin E, sterols, squalene, and polyphenols like ferulic acid.
Two clinical studies in postmenopausal women found that applying argan oil for 60 days significantly improved skin elasticity and moisturization (reduced transepidermal water loss and increased epidermal water content).
Since it is high in oleic and linoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Both of these fall in the C11-C24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Argania Spinosa Kernel OilCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Learn more about Hyaluronic AcidPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water