What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningPhytol
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingRetinyl Linoleate
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantRetinal
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantAcmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingPolyglyceryl-4 Oleate
EmulsifyingOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingMyrtus Communis Leaf Extract
PerfumingDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
AntioxidantSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingC18-36 Acid Glycol Ester
EmollientC18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientLactic Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCanola Oil
EmollientDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAroma
Beta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTridecane
PerfumingDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientUndecane
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethiconol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Phytol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Retinyl Linoleate, Ubiquinone, Bisabolol, Squalane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Retinol, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Retinal, BHT, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Sorbitan Laurate, C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Canola Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aroma, Beta-Carotene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tridecane, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Undecane
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Calcium Alginate
MaskingAgar
MaskingPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Ceramide As
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Gentiana Scabra Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPiper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Bistorta Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Retinol, Retinal, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Calcium Alginate, Agar, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Ceramide As, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide Ng, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Gentiana Scabra Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Carnosine, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Hexylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.
Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.
Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.
Learn more about Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerThis ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids?
Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming:
The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoatePalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Retinal is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the gold-standard class of anti-aging ingredients.
Retinal has many benefits as other retinoids: improve skin texture, reduce large pores, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, heal scars, and fight acne.
Studies show retinal may work at a faster rate than retinol due to its structure.
All retinoids have to be converted into retinoic acid before starting to work. Some retinoids take several steps of conversion before binding. Retinal is only one step away, making it more potent.
Like other retinoids, retinal may be irritating. It is best to ease into using this ingredient frequently.
Using the 'ramp up' method, start by using retinol once a week. This gives your skin time to adjust and decrease irritation. Once you feel ready, you can slowly increase the frequency of retinol use.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Learn more about RetinalRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol