What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Glycerin
Humectant
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingRetinol
Skin Conditioning
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
BHT
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Humulus Lupulus Extract
AntimicrobialLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Masking
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Citrus Limon Peel Extract
EmollientSpirulina Platensis Extract
Skin ProtectingCucumis Sativus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Honey
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
Masking
Water, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Retinol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, BHT, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbic Acid, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Cucumis Sativus Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ubiquinone, Honey, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Glycereth-7 Triacetate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
Humectant
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventAscorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Malpighia Glabra Fruit Juice
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Myristyl Nicotinate
Skin ConditioningTamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningOrobanche Rapum Extract
Skin ProtectingMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Xylitylglucoside
Humectant
Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningAnhydroxylitol
Humectant
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Xylitol
Humectant
Glucose
Humectant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLecithin
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPropanediol
Solvent
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Rhizobian Gum
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
Masking
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Geraniol
Perfuming
Citral
Perfuming
Citronellol
Perfuming
Benzyl Benzoate
Antimicrobial
Chlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
BHT
Antioxidant
BHA
Antioxidant
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
CI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbic Acid, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Juice, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Myristyl Nicotinate, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Orobanche Rapum Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Xylitylglucoside, Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Anhydroxylitol, Adenosine, Xylitol, Glucose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Maltodextrin, Rhizobian Gum, Mica, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, BHT, BHA, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, CI 77491, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesnât replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin wonât keep absorbing more once itâs full of vitamin C. This is why more isnât always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations donât necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of âFRAGRANCEâ or âPARFUMâ according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
