What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningDipentaerythrityl Pentaisostearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOctyldodecanol
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel Forming1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingPropylene Carbonate
SolventCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHydrolyzed Dna
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialLimonene
PerfumingHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Microcrystalline Wax, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Synthetic Wax, Collagen Amino Acids, Stearalkonium Hectorite, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum, Propylene Carbonate, CI 77891, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, CI 45410, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 15985, CI 15850, CI 42090, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Dna, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingDimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveParaffin
PerfumingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Centifolia Flower Extract
AstringentChamomilla Recutita Leaf Extract
MaskingEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
AbrasiveCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitronellol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Microcrystalline Wax, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Synthetic Wax, Paraffin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Leaf Extract, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Water, Ceramide NP, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citronellol, Parfum, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral, Eugenol, CI 15850, CI 19140, CI 77491, CI 45410
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinHydrogenated Polydecene is an emollient. It creates a non-occlusive film on the skin that offers extra protection for your skin barrier.
The texture of Hydrogenated Polydecene ranges from light and silky to rich.
Hydrogenated Polydecene is the end compound of controlled hydrogenation of Polydecene.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolydeceneHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneMicrocrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an emollient ester.
As an emollient, it softens and hydrates your skin by locking moisture in. Its large, branched structure gives it a thick, cushiony feel without being greasy. This is why it shows up most often in lip balms, lipsticks, and other stick or balm formulas, where it adds gloss and helps hold waxes and pigments together.
The phytosterol portion is a nice extra. Phytosterols are plant-based lipids that are structurally similar to ones found naturally in skin, so they can help support the skin barrier.
Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range. If you're prone to flare-ups, you might want to patch-test or skip this one.
Learn more about Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer DilinoleateSynthetic Wax is created from fossil fuels such as natural gas. It is used to enhance texture, adjust pH, and as an occlusive.
It may also be used as an abrasive ingredient to exfoliate the skin.
Synthetic Wax may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water