What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-20 Stearate
EmulsifyingPEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPalmitic Acid
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientGuanosine
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantSecale Cereale Seed Extract
AbrasiveSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Polyacrylamide
Dimethiconol
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantTin Oxide
AbrasiveBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingMyristic Acid
CleansingGeraniol
PerfumingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingWater, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Propanediol, Alcohol Denat., Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Octyldodecanol, CI 77891, CI 16035, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Guanosine, Mica, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Caffeine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Polyacrylamide, Dimethiconol, Limonene, Pentylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tin Oxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Myristic Acid, Geraniol, Laureth-7, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientLauryl Laurate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium Phytate
Arginine
MaskingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientVitreoscilla Ferment
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Lauryl Laurate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caffeine, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Phytate, Arginine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Adenosine, Alcohol, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Chlorphenesin, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineCaffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water