What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHelichrysum Italicum Extract
AntiseborrhoeicHelichrysum Italicum Flower Oil
MaskingCaesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingKappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Skin ConditioningRuscus Aculeatus Root Extract
AstringentAcmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingOriganum Majorana Leaf Extract
AntiseborrhoeicCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningEscin
TonicAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Yeast Protein
Skin ConditioningCastor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Oleyl Erucate
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningFructose
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Maltodextrin
AbsorbentAmmonium Glycyrrhizate
MaskingAlcaligenes Polysaccharides
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCI 40800
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene Glycol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caffeine, Escin, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Oleyl Erucate, Carbomer, Panthenol, Fructose, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Maltodextrin, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Cellulose Gum, Tocopherol, Chlorphenesin, CI 40800
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantOctyldodecanol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMethylpropanediol
SolventLens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHelichrysum Italicum Flower Oil
MaskingHelichrysum Italicum Extract
AntiseborrhoeicHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSilanetriol
Tocopherol
AntioxidantCorn Starch Modified
AbsorbentCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLauryl Glucoside
CleansingDisodium EDTA
Silica
AbrasiveSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeParfum
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingAlpha-Ionol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Hyaluronic Acid, Silanetriol, Tocopherol, Corn Starch Modified, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Mica, Arachidyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium EDTA, Silica, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Alpha-Ionol, Linalool, Citral, Limonene, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCellulose Gum is a water-soluble polymer that comes from cellulose. It is used to change the texture of a product and to help stabilize emulsions.
As an emulsifier, cellulose gum specifically thicken the texture of water-based products.
This ingredient is considered hypoallergenic and non-toxic. Cellulose Gum can be found in cosmetics, food, and other household goods such as paper products.
Learn more about Cellulose GumGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilWe don't have a description for Helichrysum Italicum Extract yet.
Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil is a fragrance and is an oil.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum