What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-32
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantPEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingMalva Sylvestris Extract
AstringentButylene Glycol
HumectantPoloxamer 407
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHaberlea Rhodopensis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingBHT
AntioxidantWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-32, Sodium Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ascorbyl Glucoside, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cellulose Gum, Parfum, Malva Sylvestris Extract, Butylene Glycol, Poloxamer 407, Citric Acid, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hyaluronic Acid, Haberlea Rhodopensis Leaf Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, BHT
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientArginine
MaskingJojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters
SurfactantDimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate
EmollientPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-32
HumectantBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingLactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
AntioxidantLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantAlteromonas Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningLysolecithin
EmulsifyingZiziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHalidrys Siliquosa Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Arginine, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-32, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Astaxanthin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycine Soja Oil, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Tocopherol, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Lysolecithin, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Beta-Carotene, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Halidrys Siliquosa Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.
It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.
Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.
The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.
These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.
A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.
And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.
There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.
Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.
AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).
Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Ascorbyl GlucosideButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPEG-32 is a synthetic and water-soluble polymer with 32 repeating units. It has humectant, solvent, and emulsifying properties.
As a solvent and emulsifier, it helps dissolve and blend ingredients. It is also able to attract water as a humectant to help hydrate skin. According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is non-greasy, gentle, and mildly scented.
Japanese manufacturers will sometimes call this ingredient PEG 1540.
Learn more about PEG-32Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water