Codex Labs Shaant Balancing Clay Mask Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Hyaluronic Clay Pore-Tight Facial Mask
This wash off mask is made with Lactobacillus Ferment and Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantKaolin
AbrasiveBentonite
AbsorbentStearic Acid
CleansingOryza Sativa Starch
AbsorbentLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningCetyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingVolcanic Ash
AbrasiveCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentOctyldodecanol
EmollientPogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract
PerfumingFucus Spiralis Extract
EmollientTetraselmis Chui Extract
EmollientCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Americanum Leaf Oil
MaskingCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveSodium Phytate
ChelatingCitric Acid
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingEugenol
PerfumingWater, Lactobacillus Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Kaolin, Bentonite, Stearic Acid, Oryza Sativa Starch, Lactobacillus, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Volcanic Ash, Cetyl Alcohol, Distarch Phosphate, Octyldodecanol, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract, Fucus Spiralis Extract, Tetraselmis Chui Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ocimum Americanum Leaf Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Silica, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Eugenol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantKaolin
AbrasiveStearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Bentonite
AbsorbentCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
ChelatingHydrated Silica
AbrasiveMaris Aqua
HumectantSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentSodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningBambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentEclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantSodium Phytate
ChelatingSilica
AbrasiveMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientVaccinium Corymbosum Seed
AbrasiveHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCarrageenan
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Kaolin, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Bentonite, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Gluconolactone, Hydrated Silica, Maris Aqua, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum, Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Glucose, Sodium Phytate, Silica, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Vaccinium Corymbosum Seed, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carrageenan, CI 77891, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bentonite is an aluminium phyllosilicate clay with great absorbent properties. The name 'bentonite' comes from the area where the largest source is found: Fort Benton, Wyoming.
As a clay, bentonite is often used to absorb excess oil and provide exfoliation. It has also been shown to have some antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show bentonite was effective at calming dermatitis from poison ivy and in diaper dermatitis of infants. Bentonite has also been shown to act as a barrier against toxic compounds on your skin.
Sunscreens containing bentonite display higher water resistance and stay on the skin for much longer. The sunscreens containing bentonite also show higher potency and UV light absorbtion.
Bentonite is naturally created from volcanic ash and several natural weathering/hydrothermal processes.
A common usage of bentonite is removing excess protein from white wines. Bentonite contains a property of being able to absorb large amounts of protein from aqueous solutions.
Phyllosilicate clay has a structure formed by sheets.
Learn more about BentoniteCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate SE is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of Glyceryl Stearate. It comes with a small amount of soap (usually potassium or sodium stearate) that gives it the "SE" part.
That soap lets it pull oil and water together on its own which is why it shows up as an emulsifier, thickener, and emollient.
Industry survey data shows this ingredient is used around 1-5% but Glyceryl Stearate goes as high at 17% in a leave-on deodorant.
Safety-wise, it's pretty boring: it's been deemed safe for topical use in 1982 and again most recently in 2021 by the CIR. Human repeat insult patch tests come back non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
This ingredient does carry a comedogenic rating of 3 from the old rabbit-ear assay. Just remember testing finished products in humans showed that formulas built with "comedogenic" ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves. It's worth patch testing if you're breakout prone, and always listen to your skin.
The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize the stearic acid in this ingredient, so it may not be fungal acne safe.
Allergy is rare: a 310-patient patch test study of common emulsifiers found this ingredient was not a meaningful reactor. Isolated case reports do exist so a true contact allergy is possible but uncommon.
Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate SeHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch used to help thicken a product.
It is also used in foods.
Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Learn more about KaolinPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSodium Phytate is the sodium salt of Phytic acid, a compound that plants store phosphorus in. It's the plant-derived alternative to ingredients like Disodium EDTA.
In skincare, this ingredient is a chelator that grabs onto trace metal ions like iron and copper that sneak into formulas through water/raw materials.
Those metals speed up oxidation so binding them keeps oils, fragrance, and actives from going off, stops color changes, and helps the preservative system work harder.
Survey data shows usage levels range from 0.0099%-0.5% in leave-on products, 0.025%-0.3% in rinse-off, and up to 0.05% in eye-area products. Suppliers typically recommend a range between 0.05-0.5%.
Learn more about Sodium PhytateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum