Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Treatment Serum
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Propolis Extract
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningLotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCalophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
AntimicrobialBetaine Salicylate
AntimicrobialSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningOctanediol
Tocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPropolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventC9-12 Alkane
SolventPsidium Guajava Fruit Extract
AstringentTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTranexamic Acid
AstringentSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion Stabilising3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPsidium Guajava Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialTremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
AntioxidantPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMusa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
EmulsifyingGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientBetaine
HumectantLecithin
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Phytate
ChelatingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeDecyl Glucoside
CleansingLauryl Glucoside
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tranexamic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Psidium Guajava Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ferulic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Betaine, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCorallina Officinalis Extract comes from the small red seaweed that grows on rocky coastlines that feels stiff to the touch because it builds calcium carbonate right into its cell walls.
That mineral content is basically its whole selling point: the extract brings calcium, magnesium, and trace minerals along with sugars (polysaccharides) and proteins. This is why formulators use it as a skin-conditioning and hydrating ingredient.
Lab testing does back up decent antioxidant activity for this species. A study comparing twelve red seaweeds found Corallina Officinalis stood out for its free-radical scavenging capacity. And a separate study found meaningful radical scavenging plus antibacterial activity from the raw biomass.
It's worth being clear that most of this is test-tube work on raw-algae and not a clinical trial on a finished cream.
On concentration, a 2020 industry survey found it's used at up to 2% in makeup and skincare. Safety-wise, it's as boring as it gets: the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded this ingredient (along with the powder, Thallus Extract, and Hydrolyzed versions) to be safe as used in cosmetics and cited negative sensitization data.
There's no meaningful record of it causing allergic contact dermatitis, but be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
You'll see algae/seaweed listed as a 5/5 on a lot of pore-clogging charts and that number doesn't come from anywhere; it's not in the original rabbit-ear studies that most comedogenic ratings trace back to.
The reasoning behind the reputation is that seaweed is high in iodine and iodine can trigger acne-like breakouts when eaten. This traces back to a 1976 letter in Archives of Dermatology describing two women whose breakouts cleared after they stopped taking high-dose kelp supplements orally.
And the reaction of these two women wasn't clogged pores at all: it was an iodine-triggered pustular rash. Later research found normal dietary iodine doesn't meaningfully affect acne either and nobody has shown topical seaweed delivers enough iodine to matter.
What we do have is dozens of brown and red algae ingredients found to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and a handful of studies that found algae compounds may actually help acne.
However, plenty of people do report breaking out from algae-containing products. Skin is individual and it's worth avoiding if yours has reacted to algae before.
Learn more about Corallina Officinalis ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.
Learn more about Melia Azadirachta Flower ExtractThis ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.
Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.
A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.
Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).
Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.
Learn more about Melia Azadirachta Leaf ExtractSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateThis is a lab-made ingredient that plays a huge role in improving the texture of a formula.
It's used to thicken watery gel-creams, prevent water + oil from separating, and give products a silky, non-greasy glide.
Safety-wise, a panel of independent toxicologists reviewed this ingredient and concluded it to be safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration.
A separate sensitization patch test on humans also showed no evidence of allergic reactivity, and a true allergy to this ingredient is considered rare.
Typical usage levels range from 0.015%-3% in leave-on products and 0.078%-3.2% in rinse-off products.
Learn more about Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum