What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAlcohol
AntimicrobialAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingRetinol
Skin ConditioningApricot Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters
EmollientAspalathus Linearis Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantTetrapeptide-14
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCapric Acid
CleansingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Boswellia Serrata Extract
Skin ConditioningHoney Extract
HumectantSucrose Palmitate
EmollientHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingGlutathione
Gluconolactone
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethicone
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Decyl Glucoside
CleansingCitric Acid
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeBHT
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Niacinamide, Retinol, Apricot Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Tetrapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Capric Acid, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Honey Extract, Sucrose Palmitate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Glutathione, Gluconolactone, Glyceryl Linoleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Decyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, BHT, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingSorbitol
HumectantGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningAllyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Triethanolamine
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Retinol, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Ascorbic Acid, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Triethanolamine, BHT, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water