Allies of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Cleansing Gelée Cleanser With 15 Amino Acids
This lactic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Lactic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Cleansing
Glycerin
Humectant
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Cleansing
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
CleansingCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Propanediol
Solvent
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin Conditioning
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Emollient
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Silk
Humectant
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
AstringentSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Lecithin
Emollient
Astaxanthin
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
Buffering
Lauryl Glucoside
CleansingSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Cleansing
Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Antimicrobial
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Tetrasodium EDTA
ChelatingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Water, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Caprylyl Glycol, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Polysorbate 20, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Laureth Sulfate
Cleansing
Acrylates Copolymer
Lauramidopropyl Betaine
CleansingGlycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Sucrose
Humectant
Lilium Tigrinum Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Arginine
Masking
Tyrosine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
Humectant
Aspartic Acid
Masking
Histidine
Humectant
Glycine
Buffering
Lysine
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Valine
MaskingProline
Skin Conditioning
Leucine
Skin ConditioningAlanine
Masking
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningSerine
Masking
Phenylalanine
Masking
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Masking
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Skin Protecting
Sodium PCA
Humectant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Methyldihydrojasmonate
MaskingGlucose
Humectant
Sodium Lactate
Buffering
Glucose Oxidase
StabilisingLactoperoxidase
StabilisingDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate
CleansingSodium Chloride
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Citric Acid
Buffering
Polyquaternium-7
Potassium Phosphate
BufferingLinalool
Perfuming
Disodium EDTA
ChelatingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
CI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Acrylates Copolymer, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sucrose, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Tyrosine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Histidine, Glycine, Lysine, Threonine, Valine, Proline, Leucine, Alanine, Isoleucine, Serine, Phenylalanine, Caffeine, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Sodium PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Glucose, Sodium Lactate, Glucose Oxidase, Lactoperoxidase, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Chloride, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-7, Potassium Phosphate, Linalool, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, CI 19140, CI 17200
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
