What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantMethyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingGlycine
BufferingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningFucose
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingTaraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Skin ConditioningViola Yedoensis Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMalva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 16255
Cosmetic ColorantAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantArginine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingThreonine
Valine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingWater, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxyacetophenone, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Glycine Soja Protein, Parfum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Oleate, Glycine, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Fucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Viola Yedoensis Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, CI 16255, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Alanine, Lysine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Nonapeptide-1, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Hexylene Glycol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientChrysanthellum Indicum Flower Water
AntimicrobialPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientIsopentyldiol
HumectantParfum
MaskingHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Beta-Glucan, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Flower Water, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Isopentyldiol, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Ā
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesĀ
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of āFRAGRANCEā or āPARFUMā according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumThis is a corn-derived ingredient that acts as an oil-in-water emulsifier. It's great at forming lightweight and elegant emulsions for "milky" products.
In dermal testing, undiluted PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate scored a primary irratation index of zero and human repeated insult patch tests at concentrations up to 80% showed no irritation or sensitization. Because of this low irritation score, you'll likely see it in products designed for the eye area.
You'll typically find it at 0.5-3% in formulations. It's also often paired with its sibling, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, to create stable and mild emulsion systems.
The yeast that causes fungal acne loves fats and oils with a carbon chain length between 11 and 24. This ingredient contains stearic acid, which has a chain length of 18. Due to this, we mark this ingredient as not safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about PEG-20 Methyl Glucose SesquistearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water