What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPropylene Glycol
HumectantTranexamic Acid
AstringentKojic Acid
AntioxidantAzelaic Acid
BufferingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSteareth-100
Gel FormingWater, Isopropyl Palmitate, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Steareth-100
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingSodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientLauryl Glucoside
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningMauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingBHA
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantHexapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantAdansonia Digitata Oil
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantUbiquinone
AntioxidantWater, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Sodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lauryl Glucoside, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Alcohol, Glyceryl Oleate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, BHA, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hexapeptide-11, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Adansonia Digitata Oil, Caffeine, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Ubiquinone
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water