What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantPropanediol
SolventDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Antimicrobial1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingMethylpropanediol
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolyether-1
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningWater, Zinc Oxide, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Methicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Polyether-1, T-Butyl Alcohol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPhenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
UV AbsorberMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV FilterDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterDiethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
UV AbsorberSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantTriethanolamine
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientHydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
AntioxidantTrideceth-10
CleansingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningHoney Extract
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCholesterol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient2,3-Butanediol
HumectantWater, Zinc Oxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Titanium Dioxide, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Trideceth-10, Beta-Glucan, Honey Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Glyceryl Stearate, 2,3-Butanediol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer and used to help stabilize other ingredients.
Emulsion stabilizers hold ingredients together, helping to create an even texture throughout the product.
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate can also be used to thicken the texture.
Learn more about Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide