What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCannabis Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentTocopherol
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientTriethyl Citrate
MaskingBenzoic Acid
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Sodium PCA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyproline, Proline, Glyceryl Caprylate, Triethyl Citrate, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingPropanediol
SolventGlycol Distearate
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
EmollientMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSilica
AbrasiveGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantSucrose
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Phytate
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeTriethyl Citrate
MaskingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientBenzoic Acid
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Glycol Distearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Olivate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Silica, Glyceryl Glucoside, Sucrose, Carbomer, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Triethyl Citrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Benzoic Acid, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzoic Acid is used to preserve and adjust the pH of products.
The antimicrobial property of Benzoic Acid helps elongate a product's shelf life. Its main role is to reduce fungi growth and is not found to be effective at fighting bacteria. Therefore Benzoic Acid is always added along with other preservatives.
In its pure form, Benzoic Acid looks like a white crystalline solid. It has slight solubility in water.
The name of Benzoic Acid comes from gum benzoin, which used to be the sole source of deriving this ingredient. Benzoic Acid is the most simple aromatic carboxylic acid.
Benzoic Acid is naturally occuring in strawberries, mustard, cinnamon, and cloves. It has a slight scent but is not considered to be a fragrance.
Learn more about Benzoic AcidCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Learn more about Glyceryl CaprylateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholTriethyl Citrate comes from citric acid. It has masking, perfuming, and solvent properties. As a solvent, this ingredient helps disperse ingredients evenly in skincare.
One manufacturer claims this ingredient can:
According to perfume manufacturers, this ingredient is almost odorless but has a mild fruity, wine and plum scent. It can be used to mask the scent of other ingredients.
This ingredient can be plant-sourced or synthetic; it can naturally be found in cabbage and white wine.
Learn more about Triethyl CitrateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water