What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
CleansingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAloe Barbadensis Leaf
MaskingEthoxydiglycol
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSalicylic Acid
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Lavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCoriandrum Sativum Fruit/Leaf Extract
AntiseborrhoeicCupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientJasminum Officinale Flower Extract
MaskingPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveRose Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicWater, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Ethoxydiglycol, Xanthan Gum, Salicylic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit/Leaf Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Rose Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingPetrolatum
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCeteareth-20
CleansingDimethicone
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCitrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAlthaea Officinalis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Phytate
Myristic Acid
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingGeranyl Acetate
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingVanillin
MaskingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Ceteareth-20, Dimethicone, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Squalane, Tocopherol, Sodium Phytate, Myristic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, CI 17200, CI 16035, CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 15985, CI 14700, Benzyl Benzoate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Geranyl Acetate, Limonene, Linalool, Vanillin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideThis ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).
Learn more about Cocos Nucifera OilDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinMyristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid. It is naturally found in milk fat. Other sources include palm oil, coconut oil, and butter fat.
Myristic Acid is an emulsifer and cleanser. As an emulsifer, it stabilizes a product by preventing ingredients from separating. Myristic Acid helps clean your skin by acting as a surfactant. It tends to gather oil and dirt on your skin to be easily rinsed away.
One study from 2021 found Myristic Acid to have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Myristic AcidPalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources. In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water