What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningGellan Gum
Agar
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantFructooligosaccharides
HumectantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentArginine
MaskingActinidia Arguta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
AntioxidantSophora Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ProtectingSodium Chloride
MaskingPhenylpropanol
MaskingLevulinic Acid
PerfumingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinol, Retinal, Gellan Gum, Agar, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Polyquaternium-51, Citric Acid, Beta-Carotene, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Cyanocobalamin, Ceramide NP, Maltodextrin, Arginine, Actinidia Arguta Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract, Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate
Water
Skin ConditioningDibutyl Adipate
Emollient2,3-Butanediol
HumectantEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterNiacinamide
SmoothingDrometrizole Trisiloxane
UV AbsorberTerephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
UV Absorber1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientVinyldimethicone
Arachidyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningDiethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
UV AbsorberDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningC30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningSoluble Collagen
HumectantMannose
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-6
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantTripeptide-2
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-3
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Dibutyl Adipate, 2,3-Butanediol, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Vinyldimethicone, Arachidyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Tromethamine, Arachidyl Glucoside, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Allantoin, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Stearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Soluble Collagen, Mannose, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oligopeptide-6, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideThis ingredient is also called NAD+.
It is a coenzyme naturally found in every living cell where it plays a role in energy metabolism, DNA repair, and the activation of enzymes that maintain cellular health. Niacinamide is one of its key precursors.
Our NAD+ levels naturally decline with age and several DNA repair mechanisms critical to skin health are directly dependent on NAD+ to function.
In-vitro studies on human fibroblasts have shown that exogenous NAD+ can protect agsinst UV-induced extrinsic and intrinsic aging.
Here's a big caveat: NAD+ is a large, polar moleculate that has difficult penetrating the skin's stratum corneum. It also degrades quickly when exposed to light, heat, or pH changes. That's why brands prefer to use smaller, more stable precursors like NMN or NR.
The optimal stability for NAD+ is a pH of 6-7.5 and it is typically used in concentration ranges from 0.5-2%.
If you're looking for the most well-studied topical route to support your skin's NAD+, niacinamide is your best bet.
Learn more about Nicotinamide Adenine DinucleotidePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum