What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningC13-15 Alkane
SolventPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Isoamyl Laurate
Emollient
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Propanediol
Solvent
Glycerin
Humectant
Cyclodextrin
AbsorbentTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Saccharide Isomerate
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Ectoin
Skin Conditioning
Retinal
Skin Conditioning
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Perfuming
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingLactic Acid
Buffering
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Citrate
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialWater, C13-15 Alkane, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isoamyl Laurate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Cyclodextrin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saccharide Isomerate, Panthenol, Ectoin, Retinal, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Polyglycerin-3
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Methyl Gluceth-20
Humectant
Glycereth-26
Humectant
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Citrate
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin Conditioning
Retinal
Skin Conditioning
Gellan Gum
Agar
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning
Polyquaternium-51
Skin Conditioning
Citric Acid
Buffering
Beta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Humectant
Fructooligosaccharides
Humectant
Cyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Arginine
Masking
Actinidia Arguta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Antioxidant
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ProtectingSodium Chloride
MaskingPhenylpropanol
Masking
Levulinic Acid
Perfuming
Sodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinol, Retinal, Gellan Gum, Agar, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Polyquaternium-51, Citric Acid, Beta-Carotene, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Cyanocobalamin, Ceramide NP, Maltodextrin, Arginine, Actinidia Arguta Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract, Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium levulinate is the a sodium salt of Levulinic Acid. Oncedissolved in an aqueous solution, the two ingredients become identical. It is usually derived from renewable plant sources like corn starch or sugarcane.
In skincare, it mostly acts as a skin conditioning agent that keeps skin soft and hydrated. It also acts as a preservative booster by inhibiting the growth of mold, yeast, and bacteria.
It's often paired with Sodium Anisate as the two create a broad-spectrum preservative system that is popular in "natural" formulations.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be non-irritated and there are no restrictions for use in EU cosmetics. The FDA also allows this ingredient to be used as a food-grade flavoring agent.
Learn more about Sodium LevulinateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
